shapeoko z plus 3d models

SP5 Z motors are fixed only on 0,8 mm steel sheet and are teetering. ...This item fixes the problem.

I think this modification is important because the Z home with the optical endstops allows to have the bed always at the correct distance from the nozzle once calibrated. With this modification it is also easy to better adjust the Z shift by moving...

I think this modification is important because the Z home with the optical endstops allows to have the bed always at the correct distance from the nozzle once calibrated. With this modification it is also easy to better adjust the Z shift by moving...

I didnt like how the bed wires on my Sapphire Plus were just dangling, so I designed this to use a small cable chain.

However, if you're experiencing Z-wobble on your older Craftbot or Craftbot+ due to a loose nylon Z-nut, printing this replacement at 0.1mm layer height on a high-quality printer like the original Prusa MK2 or its equivalent can provide an effective...

Clamp on rings using 3mm x 8mm long screws to give a homing reference to z motor position in case one side z is moved out of sync to the other. You set the z bed frames to same distance from top of frame down. ...Then auto home.The pointer is then...

I made my Anet A8 plus much stiffer using 2 crossbow arrows (diameter ~9mm) and these attachments fixed with one drop of super glue. Attached with M4 screws. Simple and fast... ...

For the print I used PETG. ...I had some shrinking issues with the material so I added a file in which i fixed it for my Anet A8 Plus printer

Simple Tensioner to sync the 2 z-axis motors Parts needed: 930mm - 6mm GT2 closed belt 32tooth 6mm GT2 Gear 2 12mm diameter 6mm high bearings 2 605z 8mm bearings 6 m5 x 40 mm bolts modifications: move both z axis motors up 10mm

... print both left and right versions; the 12mm hole may be too tight, so file it carefully. If your Z-rod is tilted like the creator's, first print a temporary stabilizer with low infill, then replace it with the actual stabilizer for optimal fit.

Not included here is the Z axis nut carriage, because I replaced that multi part assembly with this single piece solution from from Innovationsystems:http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:363880 Special note - These parts are tight. Get some needle files....

Increased Z Axis Mod Boosted Z axis height to a whopping 260mm Extra Required Materials: 2 x 400mm Dia 8mm T8 Lead Screw and Brass Nut 2 x 406mm Case Hardened Chrome Linear Motion Rods/Shafts/Guides, each measuring 8mm in diameter 4 x M3 8mm Hex...

The Limit switch on Sapphire plus has a minimal adjustment and If you switch the hot-end to anything taller from stock it would be hard to adjust it. ... This would need a couple of M35 screws to attach the limit switch and the existing screws to...

I designed this system to streamline the process of calibrating the Z-axis. A makeshift spirit vial was crafted using an old, inexpensive torpedo level that I happened to have on hand - these components are likely universal and easy to obtain.

To avoid losing Z-axis calibration due to the stock printrbot slipping out, consider adding a small part that secures the nut bottom. This straightforward solution improves your printer without any complex modifications. ...Sharing it to benefit others...

Attaching a #6-32 nylock nut in the Printrbot's nozzle holder simplifies adjustments of the Z-axis set screw, eliminating the need for constant loosening and tightening of nuts against the screw. ...Simply print the holder, insert the nylock nut, and...

I recently installed the Z Brace mod (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:921948), which sparked a desire to relocate my LED light strip. ...To achieve this, I designed and printed long, flat bars that securely attach to the M8 threaded rod using a...

I'm having an issue with the Z-axis dropping when my X-carriage is in motion, traveling at a rate of 0.3 millimeters per side. ...I've incorporated ball bearings into the top support plate and created a locking mechanism using a collar to secure them in...

Hardware (2) 60t 2GT pulleys 8mm bore 1000mm 2GT closed loop belt (1) M5 X 30-40MM (6) M5 X 12MM+ (3) M5 NUTS (1) M4 X 20MM (2) F624zz Bearings Mount and Slider 3 perimeters 25% honeycomb infill 6 bottom 8 top Spacers 2 perimeters 20% honeycomb...

I've been wrestling with the Delrin Z-nuts that kept wobbling around on their mounts - threading a machine screw into wood never seemed like a great idea to me. So, I came up with this mount design that wraps around both corners and eliminates those...

I designed these to resolve an issue where my LM8UU linear bearings were pushing the guide rods on my Z-axis upward during travel moves. Easy to print and install. I tried making them as low-profile as possible so they don't look too funky. I...

I wanted a set of Z-braces mainly so I could align the Z-tower accurately. It turns out this design also makes for an extremely rigid structure. These braces were designed to take up as little space as possible, so they could fit inside my enclosure....

I've had some problems with the Z spacing when mounting the dragon and/or V6 hotend. the mounting of the end stops are either too high or too low, giving you very little leeway to do bed leveling. this is especially so when using either a mirror or...

I use a Lerdge board on this and wanted to have dual Z axis endstops to keep my bed level. You will need:2 brackets4 x M2*12mm socket cap or button cap screws4 x M2 nuts4 x M4*10mm button cap screws4 x M4 Tnuts2 mechanical switches found...

The bed will slowly fall after power off, but that didn't bother me that much because the printer will home the z axis before every print anyway. I might make a redesign in the future to use a worm gear when I can find a good source for one. This mod...

I took the CR-6 drawer that takman29 created ( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4656033 ) and the Z-cover that RICBRU created ( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4670030 ) and just simply combined them, then fixed the drawers to fit.The cases fit...

This mod is designed to correct an issue in the Z axis frame. It moves and fails to align orthogonally due to a problem in my printer's setup, which was off by approximately 4 degrees. I drew inspiration from this design on Thingiverse:...

Create a Custom Clamp Assembly for Your Shapeoko Get precise results with this simple clamp assembly designed specifically for holding down parts on your Shapeoko. Use 1/4-inch bolts to secure components. Assembly Instructions Install threaded...

These plate attachments regulate the spindle's velocity setting as well as engage the machine's instant halt capability - two widely installed enhancements to the Shapeoko CNC machine system. ... I fabricated these custom components...

An idler pulley compatible with standard ball bearings, similar to those supplied with Shapeoko, can be used. For dual-drive Y axis operation, an additional set of idlers is required, as inventables currently has no stock. Creating the part from...