standalone cr 10 3d models
297212 3d models found related to standalone cr 10.thingiverse
... the adjustment. You can use this code in your printer's firmware or send it directly to the printer using a terminal program. Note: This code is specific to the CR-10 printer, so you may need to modify it if you're using a different printer model.
prusaprinters
Designed for the Ender-2 but should also fit CR-10. I ran it for 4 days solid with no problems, good part cooling and stringing control. Its ridged and weighs in at 37g (2 shells, 3 top/bottom) printed at 0.2mm. Uses existing mounting bolts for...
thingiverse
All for a CR-10 Mini but just increase screw lengths for CR-10. I used a new 500mm screw (T8*8) but re-using the original I needed to add a bit to get full travel, see TXT file. May be worth buying 2 new screws to save messing about. My basic...
cults3d
I had to make a remix of this thing because my Creality CR-10 S have a 3 holes feet, and i wanted to reuse the existing screws and holes on both 2020 and 2040 Aluminum profiles. Due to the position of the 3 threaded holes in the 2020 & 2040...
prusaprinters
This model is the top lid which can take a Bigtreetech TFT 3.5 display and is meant to replace the DWIN display that comes with the Creality CR-10 Smart (Pro) printer.I was pretty disapointed by the controlling capabilities of the original display,...
thingiverse
**Print Settings:** * Printer: CR-10 * Rafts: No * Supports: No * Resolution: 0.2mm * Infill: 20% **Important Notes:** The STL files are designed with optimal print bed alignment in mind. To achieve the best results, ensure that the objects lie flat...
thingiverse
... involves creating an extended GoPro mount. ...This project aims to resolve issues with direct extruder setups, such as the one I have on my CR-10s, where the extruder extends too far, causing it to hit other mounts when the bed is fully retracted.
thingiverse
Untested on Cr-10s5; might hit the base plate. (Update: January 29, 2019) The Y-axis base plate is very close to touching the M4-Y_Axis_Body. Therefore, V2 M4-Y_Axis_Body has been updated for more clearance. ...Unchecked with bolts of lengths m4-20 or...
thingiverse
This got rid of all the vibrations, but I still didn't like how the CR-10's control box sounded like a 747 getting ready for takeoff. So, I replaced all the control box fans, which quietened it down some, but not much. That's when I printed and...
thingiverse
Reducing the total leg length to just 135mm from its original 152.5mm allows the CR-10 control box to slide back under the printer while keeping cables 17.5mm closer. 2. Adding a radius to all sides of the mounting plates gives the legs a sleeker...
thingiverse
I was plagued by oozing and stringing problems with my CR-10 S Pro. But after installing the MicroSwiss kit, I made the bold decision to switch from a bowden system to direct drive. This easy-to-print piece of plastic allows you to move the...
thingiverse
Here's what I aim to achieve: * No more push fittings that loosen or damage PTFE tubes * Quick change bowden tube: my CR-10 / Ender-2 magnet mount quick change system (if you're not familiar with it, get to know it) * Adjustable spring tension *...
thingiverse
This Y axis belt tensioner is specifically designed for CR-10 S5 printers. It fits around the existing pulley frame and utilizes the two front bolts from that frame. Additionally, it employs M5 bolts with 5mm t-nuts mounted on top of the printer's...
thingiverse
Therefore, I wanted something similar for my new Creality CR-10 S5. donnyb99 designed the https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2158261, but it lacks the fine adjustment yet. So here it is. #### Usage: - Turning the pentagon in the direction of plus...
thingiverse
... I made some modifications to accommodate my CR-10 with Fang, as well as my end-stop switch that wasn't fitting perfectly. To enhance precision, I included an additional knob. Similar to the original, this updated version still requires a M4 screw.
thingiverse
I installed an e3dv6 clone with Volcano on my CR-10, and while things worked out okay, I had to adjust maybe 3 or 4 threads to get my bed just right. At some point (2-1) the bed started flapping around, so I didn't feel comfortable being at the edge....
thingiverse
To get this up and running, you'll need the Creality CR-10 Fan Mount by SmilingImpact, available here on Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2318614. ...If you're interested in upgrading your Creality printer, check out these hop-up parts on...
thingiverse
Print out the wire covers listed below, or tuck under the plastic cover on the CR-10 if you installed it. 4. Connect to a 12v Power Supply. I used this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078BHWD1Y/ Print settings for LED Bar and Mounts: 1x LED...
thingiverse
The Hictop CR-10 printer is notoriously loud, and I've lived with it in my room long enough to know its persistent humming can be a real nuisance at night. It was time for an upgrade - one that would hopefully silence the racket once and for all. I...
thingiverse
After experiencing the awfulness of the CR-10 v2/v3 filament sensor location for myself, I opted to relocate the sensor onto the extruder carriage, immediately above the Titan direct drive. This necessitated rerouting the filament sensor cabling...
thingiverse
It was specifically designed for the Ender-2 but should also fit on the CR-10. I ran it continuously for four days with no issues, achieving good part cooling and stringing control. The design is robust and weighs in at 37 grams (two shells, three...
thingiverse
I Used The Y-Axis Drag-Cable Made By Stevenfayers, But It Didn't Attach Well To My Creality Cr-10 S5. That Part Of The Chain Had To Be Attached To The Bed Leveling Knobs, Which Meant Removing It Every Time I Needed To Level The Bed. So, I Loaded Two...
thingiverse
Find it [here](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2879204) This mold is designed for making Silicone Sock insulators for the original stock heater block that comes with the CR-10. You will need a high-temperature silicone that can handle extreme...
thingiverse
This is an adjustable mounting bracket for the BLTouch designed specifically for the CR-10 and users who have not modified their Hot End. It might also work for those with modifications, but you can tell by checking out the photos. The design uses...
thingiverse
Ethan really needs your support, and his goal is to reach 500 subscribers: http://goo.gl/ELT7ii I added M3 threads to [mars_null](https://www.thingiverse.com/mars_null/about)'s [Adjustable CR-10 Z endstop](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2349068),...
thingiverse
Camera mount designed specifically for CR-10 3D printer owners who want to capture stunning footage with their SJ4000 GoPro. This versatile mount fits seamlessly onto any 20mm x 20mm aluminum extrusion, ensuring quick and easy removal whenever you...
thingiverse
It is compatible with OEM hotends and E3Dv6, also fitting CR-10 High Clearance Fang models. Most likely fits other Creality printers. To probe, push the probe all the way down and execute 'probe/home'. Before initiating a print but after homing the...
thingiverse
... have two assembled 20mm rollers with bearings in the ends, 10mm pipe keeping the bearings apart, allthread through everything. Push the allthread ends into printed holders. Slap the holder on a war weary CR-10, place the spool on it and enjoy.
thingiverse
This secures the CR-10's Z rod in place with high clearance to avoid contact with the X axis bar at 410mm. Attach using M3 screws and wingnuts. Initially, the original screws were too long and interfered with the X axis bar. Insert the original...
thingiverse
This is my remake of the Precision Piezo and the CR-10 Heavy Duty customisable E3D mount. I printed this in PETG, and it seems to fit all right. I also included an area where you can screw in a pneumatic connector thing for clone E3D hotends. It...