v5 vs v6 hotend 3d models

So with that no change to fit a fan inbetween extruder and hotend PCB... one idea was to put the second 4010 to the bottom of the extruder in a very steep angle... i'd might develope this design further as an alternative Design to the dual4010 V1......

Here are a few key things to keep an eye on: * **Temperature:** The temperature of your hotend will affect the flow rate of your filament. A higher temperature means more material is extruded per pass. * **Extrusion Rate:** This setting controls how...

So that the filament can enter the hotend and is progressively curved to 1.75mm. to produce heat I simply used a cheap chineese PID controler equiped with a thermocouple sensor https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32431... - the PID is controlling a...

Here's what you'll need for this project: * Raspberry Pi 3 (I used the B+ model) * Micro SD ribbon extender * USB 2.0 extenders (4 in total, with shorter and thinner options being preferred) * Ethernet cable (shorter and thinner options are a must)...

You ordered two "exactly same" hotends, only to find they are different in height and cannot be installed together! Era takes full consideration of these problems and leaves room for calibration. With careful adjustments on some screws, you can get a...

So unless you're comfortable splicing or unseating and reseating such wires I'd recommend the above linked item as it is plug-and-play; plus it's tidy] Some additional notes: (1) as can be seen in one of the pictures the smaller text I embossed on...

Finally, Hemera is an odd extruder: the mounting points are off-centered from the hotend. As a consequence, you will not have the same range in motion in the X direction. I have a 310x310 bed and was able to reach the full bed with the nozzle by...

(Sanding might be required to fit the markers.) To use the markers I move (slide up) my entire z-stop bracket and switch to keep the hotend away from the bed. To set the marker height I start the drawing and then hit stop (in program) while holding...

Just about every time it seemed like I had found the right thing, I would discover that I couldn't use it because it was designed specifically to connect to a particular hotend (that I don't have), or the mount points were on the right instead of the...

Since I made the 12 segment replacement fully open on one side, it's much easier to feed the hotend cables through the only 14 required links for this model. I'm still using the popular cable links by ModelStation,...

In the very near future, additional models of this will be released to facilitate mounting on other popular systems available today, as well as variations of the system to provide more hotend compatibility. Upcoming target printers include Prusa,...

- "Bowden Mount": A smaller bracket that can clamp down your hotend while still being able to use the included 30mm fan. - Z-top 3/16ths: Self-explanatory. Use this if you want to use 3/16" guide rods for whatever reason - 10mm output hole:...

Update May 3, 2016: I've been printing these while working on new extruders and hotends, and the original print time was getting really annoying. So, I created a mini version without numbers. It's a bit harder to use but does the job in under 5...

I was using 3dtouch sensor until one day it desperately failed and as a result the hotend crashed the heatbed. I decided not to spend another £15 for something that could fail again and worked out this solution. All you need is 9g servo (MG90, SG90...

A great benefit beside better part cooling is a better view to the hotend nozzle. So I designed this LED mount specifically for HERO ME 5015 dual fan duct, it's easy attachable to the link bar between dual fans. 2020/05/05 Update LED mount for Hero...

If you edit it, please post it as a remix! . The design is made for 1x Noctua A4x20 fan for Hotend cooling and either 1x or 2x Noctua A4x20 fans for Part cooling. ...For each fan 2-4x M3x8 screws should do.<br/> .<br/> For collision avoidance checking...

Then mount the Sherpa and make sure the PTFE tube is at the right length so that the Sherpa is pushing nice and tight against the hotend to avoid any movement or gap at either end of the PTFE tube. The rest should be straight forward. I recommend you...

Make shure you add the leveling infront of this "PRIMING" macro in your start gcode.# #  how to configure:#-------------------# If you want to change the starting position of the purge macro you can do so in line .3; make shure your X value of the...

UPDATES: - CR10 with double motor (currently testing myself): Y-motor heat issues - Ender3 (testing with a friend): Motor heat issues still searching how to calibrate them - Ender2: Still not tested, just firmware compiled; need another board...

I soldered a short length of fan wire onto the pre-soldered pads at the end of that strip, designed and printed this thing, and installed the strip on the unused screw holes at the bottom of the hotend cooling fan.I provide two versions, here:&nbsp;-...

My mounts are all printed with Hatchbox PETG @ 250c on a e3dv6 hotend with .2mm layer heights. I used 50% infill and 3 perimeter layers with 8 layers top and bottom. This will produce an extremely rigid part. Mount 1: Light and simple The first...

Print the parts in PETG at minimum; PLA will cause issues with hotend heat. I used 0.2mm layers, 4 perimeters, and 10% gyroid infill, but feel free to adjust as needed. 2. After printing the body, ensure that you remove the two thin supports marked...

If I lower my hotend height, I'll notice that one of the step motors moves differently - so it could be (x,y,z,e) / (z,x,y,e) / (y,z,x,e) etc. Okay, to calibrate your delta printer... What you need to do is print my calibration test, which should...

I combined several mods and tweaked a few things: Added so far: -http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2011713 - 3Dator inspired Extruder -http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1510425 - Just the hotend adapter for E3D -http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1087387...

You have to assemble the hotend BEFORE the extruder bolt and the wheels, otherwise it is not easy to reach the screws. You find the other mechanical parts needed in the description of the original thing from Xeroside. I printed the test version in...

13, 2018 - I added a hot end and fan duct mount for the XCR 2in1 dual extrusion hot end (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3DSWAY-3D-Printer-Part-XCR-2IN1-V2-Color-Switching-Hotend-Two-Color-NV6-Heated-0-4/32911051621.html), other fan ducts may work...

To Insert Filament, Begin Extruding, Push It Down into the Hole, and Then Tighten Screws Equally (Switching Often) Until Filament Starts to Extrude Out of the Hotend. After Both or Three Screws Are Equalized, Complete One Additional Revolution to...

Dec 11, 2016 -- I finalized the design a bit more and printed one piece, then started another, but my hotend started jamming (it's been doing it for two months). After getting tired of it, I completely tore it apart... Come to find out, my Bowden...

Because the Ender 3 has only one Z-Axis and we are adding weight to the moving hotend with motor and extruder we wanted to provide additional support to the Z-Axis lead screw. Now there are a lot of Z-Axis bearing based retainers out there however...

SpeedDrive | sashalex007 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3816051 Bullseye | dpetsel https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2759439 ### Refrences V2 HotEnd Plate | usulaco https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4712493 Satsana V2 | x4runnerGunnerx...