x axis prusa 3d models

I modified a design made for an Ender 3 to work with a Prusa Mini. ...Original link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4054237 Super glue a 8mm X 3mm rare earth magnet to the bottom. Print instructions40% Infill Use supports

For a durable flexible coupling on z-axis motors, use a round bar with minimum diameter 14mm and length 25mm in Mendel: Prusa RepRap machine design. Face off both ends and drill a 5mm through hole at one end. Next, drill a 6.5mm hole 15mm deep...

A Simple Reinforcement Solution for Those Who Don't Want to Damage Their 3D Printer Table This XY Axis reinforcement upgrade is a great option for those who want to modernize their cheap Chinese Prusa i3 with a straight vertical screw axis and slage...

I reworked this Prusa i3 Y Axis Motor holder in SCAD because I had to tweak it for my printer's rail size and distance. All major parameters are adjustable directly within the SCAD file or through Thingiverse's customizer tool. If you're using a...

I required a more substantial Z-Axis bracket for my China-made Prusa I3 (CTC) to eliminate vibrations, necessitating a larger hole at the lead screw's end. The original parts were crafted from approximately 5mm thick plywood. This new design needed...

Tightly-fit dust cover for Z-axis motor on Prusa I3 MK3S, does not interfere with lead screws.  Requires top z-axis mount removal.  Also need to temporarily remove two screws through plate metal frame (they hold power supply in place)...

On my HICTOP Prusa I3 printer, two acrylic blocks support the Y-Axis rods. Unfortunately, these blocks have very poor tolerances, which causes them to put excessive stress on the rod and bearings or even shatter. Mine did just that.\nYou can easily...

In Prusa i3 Hephestos, between the table and Z axis motors, there is a space that doesn't present any issues in itself. From my perspective however this leaves a noticeable gap. Unintentionally aside from its aesthetic appeal improvement this upgrade...

Custom Z Axis System Design for Mega Prusa i3 Rework bears is 605ZZ. PLA was used. A 40% infill rate and a layer height of 0.2 were specified, along with solid layers numbering six. Support enabled, which proved to be beneficial during the printing...

These are the parts I used to replace Prusas M5 Z-axis rods with 8mm trapezoid thread rods. It's designed for 18x18mm (15mm high) - 8mm trapezoid nuts and a 5x8mm shaft coupling for NEMA 17 stepper motors. Since I'm using an antiwobble part and auto...

My FLsun Prusa Z-axis was a bit shaky, so I designed a support that could also be used later as a mounting point for various add-ons like an extruder, spool holder, or camera mount. It's built with two 44cm long M10 threaded rods. **Print...

I had many problems with the Y-axis assembly on my prusa i3 mk2s. The distance measurement between the rods with the frame isnt really acurate and the manual doesnt give you any information about the exact distance. I found a video at the online...

Here is a cable chain I crafted for my Flsun Prusa i3 printer on the Y axis. To facilitate easy installation, you must rotate your heat plate by 90 degrees to permit the wires to exit from the side. This design significantly reduces the risk of wires...

I tightened the Y-Axis belt on a Folgertech i3 Prusa 2020 aluminum frame printer to add some extra tension. I installed this in front of the flanged bearing belt roller that came with the kit, using two T-nuts for secure mounting. Using a pair of...

These are the parts, I used to replace the Prusas M5 Z-axis rods by 8mm trapezoid thread rods. It is made for 18x18mm (15mm high) - 8mm trapezoid nuts and a 5x8mm shaft coupling for a NEMA 17 stepper. Because I use this antiwobble part and auto bed...

So why not fly the Prusa flag.-Just a simple logo with a color change at 2.20. I used (2) M4 Black Button Head screws = 8mm Length and (2) M4 T-nuts- I only had orange in PETG and used the original 0.4 nozzle, .20 Quality, and slowed the speed...

(Like multicolor, the exterior face) I still need to make some clips to mount the belt to the bed (I do it with glass bed clips atm) #Pros:# - Roller is mounted parallel to the X axis, so no leveling is needed. - Printing on a 3D printed roll, so no...

(Like multicolor, the exterior face) I still need to make some clips to mount the belt to the bed (I do it with glass bed clips atm) #Pros:# - Roller is mounted parallel to the X axis, so no leveling is needed. - Printing on a 3D printed roll, so...

... apart. The orange part was printed using a DC motor on x-axis but a stepper on y-axis. This is the type of motor used: Mitsumi 448P R-AB phase encoder encodes tacho motor speed disk DC3V, 24V, 5V, 12V. ...Once installed, this is the system running:

This is a remix of the 16T Tensioner puck for vekoj's Revised X-Axis for Prusa I3. This remix allows the use of the slightly larger (10x15mm 3mm bore) 6mm Gates belt 16T idlers by LDO. They are more robust than the tiny little idlers the original...

CNC

This creation originated from Tinkercad. ...Modify it now at https://www.tinkercad.com/things/cyZ9WjF3xgS

The Prusa i3 frame is missing essential support at the top, which may lead to undesirable oscillation or vibration during a print operation.\nAs an added feature, here's a comprehensive set of brackets that provides secure support for the Prusa i3...

I went all crazy about my Prusa MINI catching fine dust and filament pieces into Y axis grooves, so here is my solution. Click-in extrusion covers!Fast to print, even faster to click and bye, bye dust!Designed especially for Prusa MINI, but will...

This mod also works well with KalleKnall's Y axis linear rails upgrade: https://www.prusaprinters.org/de/prints/5620 ===Nuts and bolts needed=== Motor to mount 1x M3 x 10 (reuse from stock) 2x M3 x 25 Frame to mount 1x M3 x 10 (reuse from stock,...

The model this remix is based on holds the bearings much better, but it doesn't fit in a number of places on the Prusa Mini.On the left side, the extrusion is too close and on the right side both the Z-axis bracket and the Y-axis motor are in the...

The axis wobble, in particular, was a problem that left my prints with unappealing lines running along their sides. However, after researching solutions on Thingiverse, I found some "fixes" that seemed over-engineered and wasteful to me. So, I opted...

This is a remix of the x-axis Belt clip from Zizibee. Check out the original design at http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1272787. I've added a hastily designed but serviceable mount for the tight-spaced carrier of the Hesine i3 printer. The new part...

I made the reinforment to get a better angular alignment (perpendicularity of X and Y-Axis). That is also the reason why I printed it on my MK3S because the MK3s has perfectly aligned axes. The reinformcement is designed for M5 screws and...

... Geeetech Prusa i3X. You'll need: 2 Stabilizers 2 M3 x 15 screws 2 M3 bolts (preferably with anti-backlash) 2 M3 washers (preferably larger for a better fit) Replace the six of the eight M3 screws that lock the motors to the plate with longer ones.