x axis prusa 3d models

Belt holder modified to MK4 belt holder dimensions. Tensioner frame mount adjusted to hold the GT2-20 pulley(15mm diameter).Printed with PETG, 20% infill, support overall to keep hole dimensions.Additional hardware:(1) M3 x 30mm socket head screws...

Print Settings Printer Brand: RepRap Printer: Prusa i3 MK2 Rafts: No Supports: Yes Resolution: 0.200 Infill: 100% Notes: Shells: 1 Post-Printing What You Need 2 - M3x16mm socket head cap screw 2 - M3 square nuts 2 - M3 hex nuts Printed parts (choose...

On the HICTOP Prusa I3 printer, the Y-Axis rods are supported by a couple of acrylic blocks. The tolerances on the blocks are very poor, causing then to stress the rod (and the bearings) or to shatter (as mine did).</p> <p>You can easily replace...

Replacing them will require following these instructions: Print the specified parts, then replace them directly onto your Prusa i3 Rework. The primary motivation for undertaking this replacement is to reduce significantly the likelihood of the M5...

On the stock HICTOP Prusa I3 printer, the Z-axis threaded rod is supported by sticking it through a hole in an acrylic part. This is a bad idea because 1) HICTOP's tolerances on these parts are not very good and 2) the rod will wobble and wear...

**Print Settings:** Printer: Prusa i3 Rafts: None needed Supports: Eliminated for smoother designs Resolution: Optimized at .2 layer thickness with a .8 shell and .6 top/bottom thickness Infill: Strategically designed at 20% for a balance between...

This collection of Z-axis parts solves the 0.2mm misalignment issue found in the original models (refer to https://github.com/prusa3d/Original-Prusa-i3/issues/34) and is designed for use with a F688 bearing, perfect for anti-wobbling applications. ...

On the stock HICTOP Prusa I3 printer, the Z-axis threaded rod is supported by being stuck through a hole in an acrylic part. This is a bad idea because 1) HICTOP's tolerances on these parts are not very good and 2) the rod will wobble and wear...

Adjustable Z-Endstop for Sintron Prusa i3 with Mech Endstops.

For Genuine Engineering Excellence, Prusa i3 Aluminum Edition

The orange part was printed using a DC motor on the x-axis but a stepper on the y-axis. ... Here's the type of motor I used:...

This is a very simple, super fast to print z-axis vibration damper for the original Prusa MK3. The Z-top parts for the MK3 are closed at the top. Still the hole for the z-rods on the top parts are much larger than the Z-rods: this is as per design...

This is a super fast-to-print z-axis vibration damper designed for the original Prusa MK3. On the MK2, the Z-top parts had a hole for the Z-rods. For my MK2S, I previously created some z-rod vibration dampers that can be found here:...

Initially, adjusting the y-axis belt tension involved flipping the entire printer over and manipulating the cable attachment points to tighten the belt. This process quickly became frustrating. I discovered another similar tensioner, part #807702,...

To adjust the y-axis belt tension, the original setup required flipping the entire printer onto its side and manipulating cable attachment points to tighten the belt. This process quickly became tiresome. To address this issue, I adapted a similar...

This is a fast and easy-to-print z-axis vibration damper for the original Prusa MK3. The MK2 had a hole in its Z-top parts for the Z-rods. For my MK2S, I designed some z-rod holders a while ago. The new Z-top parts for the MK3 are closed at the...

This belt tensioner is designed specifically for the Y-Axis idler on a MakerFarm Prusa i3v printer model. It has been successfully used on my own 10-inch version of the printer but I'm confident it will work seamlessly with other models as well. The...

This is a Y Axis End Stop for the "Original" Prusa i3 designed by Prusa Research. The kit enables you to secure the switch to the 8mm round bar using a more robust method than zip ties, thereby eliminating any potential damage from excessive...

Front is now 160mm wide x 240mm deep x 40mm high Rear is now 160mm wide x 120 mm deep and 40mm high ...without altering the height of the print bed or the printer footprint! I have revised the belt mount and the idler. ...The new parts are pictured...

CTC / Geetech - Prusa i3 Pro B from eBay, this kit lets you trade in threaded rods for 8mm x 2mm pitch lead screws and significantly boost print quality. Every part is designed to be a direct replacement, so take a close look at the photos if you're...

So this new version has some tabs attached that fit the front and back panels, keeping the bumper aligned perfectly and out of the way of the heatbed.Note that the bumpers only make sense in combination with my Y-axis bearing holders (see here) or...

This component is designed to ensure that the z-axis remains steadily in place.

Replacing old U-bolts with new bearing clamps on the Y-axis is the plan.

redesign part posted on priintables.com. ...the extra strength should make the z-axis more stable

The top axis features a robust 608 bearing that provides maximum support and stability.

The Z-axis end bracket is secured tightly using fasteners to prevent unwanted movement.

This is for bringing the Z-axis pole to a complete stop.

Changing Z height on Prusa slicer is an option…Checking bumper length: When bringing the bed plate all the way to the back, and applying little force on the left side, you should not be able to see the plate moving back, same for the right side, once...

This is a remix of Grégoire Saunier's original Y axis rod holders for the Prusa Bear upgrade. Although using zip ties to secure smooth rods is perfectly in line with reprap aesthetics, I personally felt it took away from the beauty of the Bear kit.

I upgraded the x- and y-axis with RJ4JP bearings and it's super quiet now, doesn't have any play and runs super smooth. The design should also work with the standard bearings.I did have some issues with the original design:When I installed the y-axis...