anet a8 parts 3d models

12.03.2018: Reinforcing the glass-fixing structure requires a 2mm wall thickness of glass, reduced by 0.5mm in the upper portion to prevent collision with the levelling sensor, and extending the upper part by 2mm for improved glass-fixing stability...

... dimensions and electrical specifications, refer to the datasheet at http://www.qualtekusa.com/images/AC_Receptacles/pdfs/76400002.pdf. This switch is typically manufactured using STL (Stereolithography) files and SLDprt (SolidWorks Part) models.

The screws holding the rod in place became loose, causing it to fall off, resulting in the loss of the printed part. I rapidly designed a sturdy light-weight rod lock that allows for quick printing. ...With this new design, the rod will no longer detach...

Heatbed (410X410X3mm): https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32904171739.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.10f84c4d6jZKCX Removal Spring Steel (410x410mm): https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000061686628.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.10f84c4d6jZKCX MK8 extruder:...

The links for the parts i prefer to use are below: Y carriage: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3270663 by mukha521 LCD: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1262136 by vtoryh I also added stls of joint parts for mounting LCD on aluminum extrusion. PCB...

It's designed to work with spare parts from the machine. Change the screws from the extruder motor to (M3 - 28 mm). The hinge works with (M3 - 45 mm) screws, which are the ones you take out from the extruder. The fan is mounted with (M3 - 19mm)...

To get started, you'll need: Two M2x10 screws Two M2 nuts Two M3x18 stock screws (they come pre-installed) Four M3 nuts (you can find them in your stock parts) One M3 screw of any length (just use whatever's on hand) Two M3 washers (optional, but...

... slightly, with a thinner profile under the bearing that presses the filament against the gear. Additionally, the spring of the extruder has also been slimmed down to allow for smoother operation. For settings, please refer to Leo's original part.

Although I printed it using PETG initially, I encountered a significant issue: the part would flex and eventually fail at the hotend mount point due to its plastic material properties. ...In response, I developed this design specifically to address that...

This part has been designed to function without any bearing or screw. As a tip, apply grease to the area where the metal rod is inserted. To assemble it, you will need to remove the top plate of the Z axis. It may be necessary to lower the threaded...

i do not like the way cables are managed (there is not management at all), so i designed these parts to improve it.two options, all plastic and a mix of plastic and alluminiumfirst options is made up of two separate parts that allows you to hide...

The second part needs to be mounted on the extruder carriage with two M4 screws, which I obtained by reusing those already present on the X-axis bearings. After printing and assembling the parts, you need to modify the fine G-Code from your slicer....

We make upgrades for the Tronxy machine, which has an extremely lightweight aluminum frame causing it to warp, so we design these parts to avoid warping and vibrations. You can buy this piece on our Facebook page. Follow us on Facebook at...

(The part is designed to fit the suggested settings, but if a small modification is required just change the number marked with the red arrow). The switch should cut off the AC power from the source, so it should be placed in series. ... Visit my...

The only part that I designed from scratch is the tool support. To switch seamlessly between the extruder and the laser, I installed intuitive buttons, eliminating the need to constantly unplug and plug in devices. ... I also added a convenient cable...

... picture Ø 2.2 x 0.7. A convenient hole has been provided to lubricate the bearing. If you're planning to install a BMG under it, you can find the link for the part to install on this configuration below: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4408046

Print Settings: Printer Brand: Prusa Printer Model: Prusa Steel Rafts: No Supports: Yes Infill Percentage: 15% Post-Printing Settings: Speed: 80mm/s Infill Percentage: 15% Layer Height: 0.1500 mm Use Support Material: Yes Design Process: I designed...

... Guide. In version two, there's a holder for the filament spool, but it's difficult to print. I'm considering breaking it down into three parts for easier printing. ... If you have any problems or improvements for this design, please let me know.

When positioning the probe on the mobile part's hole, it is essential to secure a 3mm nut in place and attach a 3M*30 screw to the vertical hole, thereby allowing for precise adjustment of the probe's height. ...To firmly affix the probe to its mount, I...

To get this thing together you'll need these parts: 2x M3x5 3x M3x30 6x washer M3 2x M3 nut 1x M8x40 1x M8x30 2x nut M8 3x washer M8 Two bearings with a 22mm outer diameter are also required. This design allows for easy assembly and adjustment of the...

After testing a couple of prints, I realized metal M3 nuts worked better than tapping the plastic, although I did create a threaded plastic test part and it functioned fine. To replicate this design, you'll need 2 x M3 nuts and 2 x M3 screws. This...

To upgrade your 3D printer, you'll need the part from Thingiverse (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2445884) and another one. Before using the purge bucket, it's recommended to apply tape on the part to prevent smelting. You can see a picture of...

... though I haven't had a chance to test it yet. You can squeeze the two parts onto the bearings by hand, but it requires some effort. ...To make things easier, I used a vise, but pliers or even a light tap with a hammer should also work just fine.

... To create this spool holder, you'll need to print several parts, including four 608 bearings and two threaded rods that are M8 in size and measure 225mm long. This versatile spool holder is specifically designed to accommodate a 60mm wide spool.

... yourself. Before printing, you may rotate at 90 degrees the part in Cura (as shown on the picture after the printing stops). ...No need for supports, but I prefer to use low speed (30 mm/s) for a better quality (since I am not a "in hurry" person).

I used SolidWorks Student to design the part itself, and then Slic3r to generate the Gcode. If you have any questions or need further clarification on anything, please don't hesitate to reach out. ...This piece is specifically designed to accommodate...

The extruder doesn't touch any part of the arc and stays stable since it's close to the fans. Using a semi-circular, full-circular or stock fan mount probably won't be possible, although I haven't tried it out yet. ...If you find a way to make it work,...

There are also two notches to help align the parts perfectly. You might need to do a bit of filing to get the fit just right. To print it correctly, place it on your printer like shown in the third picture. Note: The diameter of the hole where the...

When properly functioning, this critical part prevents unnecessary wear on other components, thereby extending their lifespan. In essence, the belt tensioner serves as an intermediary between the engine's crankshaft and the serpentine belt. It...

I added a picture for assembly to make it clear which part belongs where. The cable setup in the box still looks messy as you can see in the pictures, but I plan to tidy up and e.g. take the control panel out of the box. The handles I used may...