cr 10 max 3d models

Patreon: http://www.patreon.com/flowalistik Donations: http://www.paypal.me/flowalistik I've designed 3D printable legs for the Creality CR-10 and other aluminum extrusion compatible printers. Each leg is 120mm tall, providing ample space to place...

Check the following links.Patreon: http://www.patreon.com/flowalistikDonations: http://www.paypal.me/flowalistik---3D Printable legs for the Creality CR-10 and other aluminum extrusion compatible printers.The legs are 120mm tall, enough to place the...

Hello makers, I decided to remix the CR-10 BLTouch mount by shocksofmighty because my original bltouch was not the right size and the nozzle scratched my bed. I'm sharing the "new" simple version with you now. v1.0 - Added some material to level...

This is a comprehensive conversion to make the entire system self-contained by removing the box from a CR-10. It also includes small changes to improve reliability and usability. Note: The display case for this thing relies on extra crossbars...

Compatibility: This nozzle tip is compatible with 3Dtox and CR-10 printers that use a standard hotend system. It's designed to be installed on the left side of the Hotend holder, behind the original metal cover. Difference between nozzle versions: ...

Patreon: http://www.patreon.com/flowalistik Donations: http://www.paypal.me/flowalistik --- 3D printable legs designed for the Creality CR-10 and other aluminum extrusion compatible printers are now available. These sturdy legs stand at 120mm tall,...

This is a customized set of corners and side covers for CR-10 printers. They are engineered to be used in conjunction with mirrors instead of the standard glass. I opt for mirrors from Lowes.com - #0197427, which measure 12 inches, providing ample...

This is a customized Cr-10 Y carriage that I designed to reduce weight significantly. The inspiration behind it came from the one created by Tiny Machines. First, this part needs to be machined out of 0.125-inch aluminum (or equivalent in metric -...

This is a carriage designed specifically for use with the CR-10, engineered to accommodate two 50x15 blower fans as well as a 30mm fan for effective hotend cooling. All screws used are M3, and an M3 loc nut is strategically positioned behind the...

A somewhat over-engineered yet still imperfect pen holder for the Creality CR-10 printer. The rubber band in place ensures the pen remains firmly held down even when printing on uneven materials. This upgrade is a game-changer because it attaches...

It's compatible with the filament guide that lots of users know and use (check out "Creality CR-10 Filament Guide", thanks to Greg191134). You'll need to print at 100% infill, and layer height 0.1, because of how the lever fits into the axis. I...

Patreon: http://www.patreon.com/flowalistik Donations: http://www.paypal.me/flowalistik --- 3D printable legs for the Creality CR-10 and other aluminum extrusion compatible printers are now available. These legs stand at 120mm tall, providing ample...

Skull Tower Legs for the Creality CR-10 Printers - A Space-Saving Solution. These innovative legs elevate your printer by 16.5cm, freeing up valuable desk space to store the control unit and other essentials. This clever design gives you more room to...

Print Settings Printer brand: Creality Printer: CR-10S Supports: Yes Resolution: .2 Infill: 50% Category: 3D Printer Extruders

A link to the spacers: https://www.mcmaster.com/92871A361/ Update 10/16/20 While going through my Linear rail/lightweight sled projects I decided that weight matters on the Y axis. Ringing and all of that. One thing I decided I could save weight...

Standalone Enclosure for the CR-10 V2. The power supply and board fit perfectly Plug & Play, only the cables from the input connector to the power supply need to be extended. It is designed for a Raspberry Pi, 2x Relays, and a Stepdown converter.

I was using Dr Boo's squash ball feet, which worked amazingly well, but my CR-10 controller failed and the MKS Gen V1.4 replacement wouldn't fit inside the controller box, so I decided to ditch the box and put everything on or under the printer...

(Personally, I'm not convinced of the benefits of squash-ball feet, as they seem to increase ringing artefacts on printouts.) By the way, the standard CR-10 filament holder can be installed on the top of the printer, with no modifications to the...

We connected the main power line from the CR-10 to relay 1's center post using 16 guage wire, then linked relay 1 to the main power on the motherboard with smaller wires. We used the following components: Raspberry Pi 3b:...

It's a fully printed enclosure for the CR-10 that really works well! I had tried ABS and nylon on the printer before with some pretty bad warping issues, but it was all about keeping the heat around the part instead of letting it float away and warm...

This is primarily a remix of Kiayoto's CR-10 enclosure. I removed the lower section of that enclosure and modded several pieces of the original. I had printed all of the original parts then made adjustments to suit my needs. I also modded the...

Hopefully this beacon will give my CR-10s a boost in speed when I install some speed 3 modules. It might not be perfectly level, but lowering it down into the build plate by just 0.1mm should make no difference at all. ...Check out this video for more...

Hopefully this beacon will speed my CR-10s up when I throw some speed 3 modules in it. ... It might not be compltely flat so it wont hurt to lower it down into the build plate .1mm or so https://youtu.be/-ptA6_WomfQ

My CR-10S has been converted to be all-in-one, so the feet dimensions are probably different than a stock CR-10S. Additionally, there is no control box that needs space to the side. It screws in with #8 1/2" wood screws to assemble the back supports...

I did a fair amount of searching and wasn't satisfied with the cost or design of several of the enclosures available for the CR-10 and other larger printers, so I decided to design my own. This enclosure is fully-customizable and can be scaled up or...

My CR-10S has been converted to be [all-in-one](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3513661), so the feet dimensions are probably different than a stock CR-10S. Additionally, there is no control box that needs space to the side. It screws in with...

... you need to print all additional parts - door and hinges.) Print with support and skirt. Pictures are from the first design with 2 mm walls. The second design comes with 3mm walls. https://pinshape.com/items/44114-3d-printed-cr-10-s-enclosure

I created this frame because I wanted to gradually move the contents of my CR-10 control box underneath the printer. I'm using 2040 aluminum extrusion. Two pieces were cut for the entire length of the "Y" axis, and two more were cut for the entire...

Although I had already replaced most of my printer's original extruder and hot end parts, I wanted this new setup to reuse as many of the original parts as possible from my Creality CR-10S when I bought it. The resulting system consists of two main...

Ventilation cut-outs on the CR-10S proved subpar; I had to enlarge holes for improved airflow and install wire-mesh guards around each fan. A custom adapter plate was 3D printed for seamless integration with these new guards. Additionally, I drilled...