cr 10 simplify3d settings

This is a customized Cr-10 Y carriage that I designed to reduce weight significantly. The inspiration behind it came from the one created by Tiny Machines. First, this part needs to be machined out of 0.125-inch aluminum (or equivalent in metric -...

Patreon: http://www.patreon.com/flowalistik Donations: http://www.paypal.me/flowalistik --- 3D printable legs designed for the Creality CR-10 and other aluminum extrusion compatible printers are now available. These sturdy legs stand at 120mm tall,...

This is a comprehensive conversion to make the entire system self-contained by removing the box from a CR-10. It also includes small changes to improve reliability and usability. Note: The display case for this thing relies on extra crossbars...

Skull Tower Legs for the Creality CR-10 Printers - A Space-Saving Solution. These innovative legs elevate your printer by 16.5cm, freeing up valuable desk space to store the control unit and other essentials. This clever design gives you more room to...

Compatibility: This nozzle tip is compatible with 3Dtox and CR-10 printers that use a standard hotend system. It's designed to be installed on the left side of the Hotend holder, behind the original metal cover. Difference between nozzle versions: ...

Patreon: http://www.patreon.com/flowalistik Donations: http://www.paypal.me/flowalistik --- 3D printable legs for the Creality CR-10 and other aluminum extrusion compatible printers are now available. These legs stand at 120mm tall, providing ample...

Standalone Enclosure for the CR-10 V2. The power supply and board fit perfectly Plug & Play, only the cables from the input connector to the power supply need to be extended. It is designed for a Raspberry Pi, 2x Relays, and a Stepdown converter.

I was using Dr Boo's squash ball feet, which worked amazingly well, but my CR-10 controller failed and the MKS Gen V1.4 replacement wouldn't fit inside the controller box, so I decided to ditch the box and put everything on or under the printer...

A link to the spacers: https://www.mcmaster.com/92871A361/ Update 10/16/20 While going through my Linear rail/lightweight sled projects I decided that weight matters on the Y axis. Ringing and all of that. One thing I decided I could save weight...

(Personally, I'm not convinced of the benefits of squash-ball feet, as they seem to increase ringing artefacts on printouts.) By the way, the standard CR-10 filament holder can be installed on the top of the printer, with no modifications to the...

We connected the main power line from the CR-10 to relay 1's center post using 16 guage wire, then linked relay 1 to the main power on the motherboard with smaller wires. We used the following components: Raspberry Pi 3b:...

This is primarily a remix of Kiayoto's CR-10 enclosure. I removed the lower section of that enclosure and modded several pieces of the original. I had printed all of the original parts then made adjustments to suit my needs. I also modded the...

Hopefully this beacon will give my CR-10s a boost in speed when I install some speed 3 modules. It might not be perfectly level, but lowering it down into the build plate by just 0.1mm should make no difference at all. ...Check out this video for more...

Hopefully this beacon will speed my CR-10s up when I throw some speed 3 modules in it. ... It might not be compltely flat so it wont hurt to lower it down into the build plate .1mm or so https://youtu.be/-ptA6_WomfQ

I did a fair amount of searching and wasn't satisfied with the cost or design of several of the enclosures available for the CR-10 and other larger printers, so I decided to design my own. This enclosure is fully-customizable and can be scaled up or...

My CR-10S has been converted to be [all-in-one](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3513661), so the feet dimensions are probably different than a stock CR-10S. Additionally, there is no control box that needs space to the side. It screws in with...

I created this frame because I wanted to gradually move the contents of my CR-10 control box underneath the printer. I'm using 2040 aluminum extrusion. Two pieces were cut for the entire length of the "Y" axis, and two more were cut for the entire...

Although I had already replaced most of my printer's original extruder and hot end parts, I wanted this new setup to reuse as many of the original parts as possible from my Creality CR-10S when I bought it. The resulting system consists of two main...

Ventilation cut-outs on the CR-10S proved subpar; I had to enlarge holes for improved airflow and install wire-mesh guards around each fan. A custom adapter plate was 3D printed for seamless integration with these new guards. Additionally, I drilled...

A humble light fixture that required only a brief 10-minute creative spark to bring to life.

I then came across tinymachines shipping their CR-10s equipped with spring caps, which got me thinking. So, I quickly whipped up some caps using Tinkercad. It's probably a good safety precaution to prevent springs from digging in and causing...

Initially, I found the concept intriguing but realized it wouldn't suit my Creality CR-10S due to its relatively low profile. ... To rectify this issue, I embarked on a complete redesign, incorporating several key modifications: -the ring has been...

Humans Utilize Support Settings Everywhere, Infilling a Minimum of 70 to 100 Percent

A precision-cut hole, measuring 10.5mm in diameter, securely cradles the pen in place with a clamping screw that keeps it firmly attached, all without requiring removal of the metal fan box. ...This thoughtful redesign also elevates the pen holder above...

... screw for one that's approximately 8mm in size. Cut a foam pad to 34x49mm and attach it securely to the piece. Keep in mind that the hole needs to be precisely 10 mm deep, so make sure to purchase foam that's thicker than this minimum requirement.

The wood piece sizes are as follows: Front/Back - 18 inches by 25.5 inches (the door is however big you want it to be) Right Side (Front) - 12.5 inches by 25.5 inches Right Side (Back) - 11 inches by 25.5 inches Left Side (Front) - 12 inches by 25.5...

To complete this project, you'll require the following additional parts: - Flat LCD 10-Pin Ribbon Cable (50cm) https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01BI009A6/ref=ya_st_dp_summary?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - 12 to 16 Gauge wire; I used 12 gauge, which was...

2) Install brackets, tap frame M5 holes 3) Once the glue has set on one end, attach tube_end to the other end and install to the brackets and frame, let glue set. Avoid using the printer while the glue is setting. 4) Optional : Remove, prime...

... holder. And tighten the T-nuts on the center to secure it in place if needed. Print Settings Printer Brand: Anycubic Printer: Predator Rafts: No Supports: No Resolution: 200 Infill: 20 Filament: PolyMaker PLA Category: 3D Printer Accessories

... the stroke on the Y-axis. ...This allows the nozzle to protrude 1cm from the bed, making it easy to purge comfortably. Use the same screws as before. Connect the cable first and then secure it with a screw. To center the print, set the Y offset to -15.