cr 10 simplify3d settings
971262 3d models found related to cr 10 simplify3d settings.thingiverse
Things you need: * 2x DB37 connectors (male & female) * Some cable * Some screws (spare screws from CR-10 will do the trick) * Printed connector box * 2x printed DB37 housing * Some patience when soldering all the wires I've used an old printer...
thingiverse
What's more, it was originally designed for an e3D printer rather than the CR-10. To get started with this project, I used a hotend fan cover from Thingiverse (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2160958) as a starting point. ...If you spot any areas...
thingiverse
One fit the Cr-10 great but the filament wore it down so I used the ring and bearings from another that didn't fit my CR-10 right. Requires purchase of 1 - M4 x 16mm bolt (I just used a random screw from the garage that fit) 608-2RS Ball...
prusaprinters
My trusty old CR-10 was taking too much horizontal space with the separate command box, while I did not mind it taking more vertical space. ...I know there are a lot of all-in-one solutions everywhere, but they involve taking the control box apart,...
thingiverse
When I got my CR-10, printing with provided PLA was a non-stop affair until I decided to try out some PLA that had been sitting around for ages - only to discover that the spool diameter was too small to fit over the provided spool holder! Since I...
thingiverse
I present a mechanical toggle switch to install on the front of your CR-10. With a depth of 300, it's actually possible to reach 310. This leaves a margin of 10 to place a toggle switch directly in series on the power cable. With the following...
thingiverse
These custom legs elevate my CR-10 printer by precisely 90 mm, allowing me to easily access the bed adjustment screws without touching the bed itself. I deliberately positioned them to keep the control box clear of the printer's base, ensuring I can...
thingiverse
It's a fully printed enclosure for the CR-10 that really works well! I had tried ABS and nylon on the printer before with some pretty bad warping issues, but it was all about keeping the heat around the part instead of letting it float away and warm...
thingiverse
- A hole is now located down the middle, allowing for the original rubber feet from my CR-10 v2 to be screwed in. This requires inserting an M5 nut into the leg. - The rear foot features a long extension that protrudes from the back of the printer....
thingiverse
A precise way to fine-tune your CR-10's bed is at hand. This custom-made dial fits perfectly over existing bed knobs, providing a convenient means of adjustment. M4 threads with a 0.7mm pitch are used, allowing you to turn the knobs by just...
thingiverse
Needed a model for my CR-10 Max to plan out dimensions for an enclosure. Can't find any anywhere so I did my own (mostly). Measured it by hand with a measuring tape so the only dimensions I am fairly certain are correct are the extrusions, the...
thingiverse
This is a Cr-10 frame brace that I designed with truss-style in mind. My goal was to create a printer support system that would prevent ghosting and look great, making it perfect for use with the ever popular braces by RebelRousingProps...
thingiverse
Pipe Cooler v0.01 Initially designed for personal use, some members of the CR-10 Facebook group requested it, so here is the Pipe Cooler. There are likely better options available, but I wanted a design that looked appealing to me and functioned...
cults3d
A precise way to calibrate your CR-10's bed precisely fits over existing bed knobs. M4 threads have a 0.7mm pitch, so turning the knobs one-seventh of a turn changes the distance by exactly 0.1mm. The face is beveled and numbers are added, allowing...
thingiverse
I was always annoyed with the control box being off to the side of my new Creality CR-10 V3 printer, so I decided to do something about it. The control box now sits underneath the printer and really cleaned up my workspace a bunch by giving the...
thingiverse
I struggled with the extruder slipping and prints failing because of the CR-10 spring's weakness, offering little tension and no adjustment options. I designed a spacer/spring holder to increase the spring's grip. Unfortunately, it works too well -...
thingiverse
... 20mm M4 screw, it still worked. You'll also need an extra T-nut and M3 or M4 screw for the switch bracket; my printer came with extras that were suitable. The y-endstop doesn't require any new hardware. My CR-10 40S printer is what I'm working on.
thingiverse
I recently acquired a CR-10 and was immediately struck by the fan's unique design, featuring 4 indented screw holes that differ from those found on other part cooling fans I've encountered. The part cooling itself is woefully inadequate, resulting in...
thingiverse
I designed this to better organize things around my CR-10 printer. I like a neat workspace. Try as I may, it always ends up getting messy. But, at least I'm making an effort. LOL. I plan on mounting it to the control box with double sided tape. I...
thingiverse
Many users of the CR-10 utilize the "High Clearance CR10 OEM Fang Mod" at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2544186. This is a great option! However, when using a dial indicator for bed leveling with the extruder cover, this method no longer works.
thingiverse
This mount fits snugly into the 2020 extrusion on my CR-10, and it should also fit any 2020 extrusion (please share your "make" if you use it for a different printer model). UPDATE: June 2019 Following a mishap where I accidentally bumped the...
thingiverse
I also resized the text and eliminated the v2 characters, since this tool holder works for both V2 & V3 versions of the CR-10 (maybe others). A small bolt can be used with a T-nut in the top 2020 extrusion to hold it in place. The bolt/T-nut is...
thingiverse
... you need to print all additional parts - door and hinges.) Print with support and skirt. Pictures are from the first design with 2 mm walls. The second design comes with 3mm walls. https://pinshape.com/items/44114-3d-printed-cr-10-s-enclosure
thingiverse
Use a second open-end wrench to hold it in place!\r\n\r\n05.04.2019: bowden_fitting_m6-101,5p-adapted.stl added - M6 thread is 101.5% thicker for better hold.\r\nM6-distance.stl added in case the tension of the Bowden tube always loosens the M6...
thingiverse
A somewhat over-engineered yet still imperfect pen holder for the Creality CR-10 printer. The rubber band in place ensures the pen remains firmly held down even when printing on uneven materials. This upgrade is a game-changer because it attaches...
thingiverse
So i started a Cr-10 platform that will finally include ALL details except for screws and rubber-bands, and motors. The project is about 85% done so it is a model that is still in development. The original project is started in 3DS MAX 2016 and i...
thingiverse
Hello makers, I decided to remix the CR-10 BLTouch mount by shocksofmighty because my original bltouch was not the right size and the nozzle scratched my bed. I'm sharing the "new" simple version with you now. v1.0 - Added some material to level...
cults3d
Patreon: http://www.patreon.com/flowalistik Donations: http://www.paypal.me/flowalistik I've designed 3D printable legs for the Creality CR-10 and other aluminum extrusion compatible printers. Each leg is 120mm tall, providing ample space to place...
prusaprinters
Check the following links.Patreon: http://www.patreon.com/flowalistikDonations: http://www.paypal.me/flowalistik---3D Printable legs for the Creality CR-10 and other aluminum extrusion compatible printers.The legs are 120mm tall, enough to place the...
thingiverse
It's compatible with the filament guide that lots of users know and use (check out "Creality CR-10 Filament Guide", thanks to Greg191134). You'll need to print at 100% infill, and layer height 0.1, because of how the lever fits into the axis. I...