creality cr 10 y axis pulley 3d models

As a result, this setup minimizes wobble caused by the heavy bed moving on the y-axes sled, which in turn reduces the likelihood of shadowing on printed objects. It is essential to note that after making this adjustment, you should lower your...

I tweaked the Z-axis multi-camera mount made by Galbazig, converting it into a versatile bracket with a single 3mm hole for small IP cameras. Home surveillance enthusiasts who already run security servers can greatly benefit from this simple upgrade....

... Important: After completing your installation, remember to check that your cable moves freely across the entire X axis at maximum Z height. ...Any tightness or pulling can lead to fatigue and eventual failure of the cable at an inconvenient time.

I crafted this design to serve as a substitute for my faulty pulley on my X axis belt tensioner. It can also work for the Y axis. The part features a 10mm inner diameter, which fits the 623zz bearing perfectly. I have included the Solidworks file...

The part cooling fan can be easily adjusted to match the length of either the Vulcano or standard extruder models.\r\n\r\nTo build this design, you'll need:\r\n-2 M3x5 screws for secure assembly\r\n-6 M3x30 screws for stable mounting\r\n-4 M3x60...

This is the Y-Axis bearing/pulley block. I was wrestling with issues related to belt alignment, which caused the belt to ride up on the belt guide and wreak havoc on the y stepper motor driver. The consequence of this was that after a certain amount...

... comes form a piece of yellow paper that has been put in between the parts. Back plate hasn't been remixed.   Original includes more designs:  https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-x-axis-cover-for-creality-cr-10-cr-10s-and-ender3-123628

This Y-Axis Idler Pulley fits for wider idlers on your Anet A8 Frame Part, boasting an expanded gap of 0.4 mm over the standard Anet A8 piece.\r\nYou'll also need to secure a M3 rectangle nut in place, which will be a breeze due to its streamlined...

Y-axis Belt Pulley Support / Stabilizer for Wanhao i3 Plus, MonoPrice Select Plus and Powerspec i3 Plus. This support replaces the factory cantilevered design and reuses the stock pulley. It offers a stable platform for your 3D printer's Y-axis belt...

The ToM Y-axis idler belt pulley shaft is reinforced via double shearing, enhancing its rigidity and ensuring consistent belt tension. This design also relieves stress from the clear plastic component. The part was fabricated with a 15% fill rate,...

After three years, I decided to swap out the y-axis pulley mount. I salvaged 1228 bearings from a previous project and utilized them, along with an aluminum axle that I fashioned myself. The stl file for the axle is included for reference. Secure the...

Geeetech i3B 8mm Acrylic, Y-Axis Tensioner, all measurements are in millimeters, GT2 Aluminum Timing Drive Pulley as shown in the picture. Print Settings: Printer: Geeetech i3B (heavily modified) Rafts: Does not matter. Supports: Does not...

Replacement y-axis belt tensioners for the k40 lasers are a must-have upgrade. The stock RH side, as shown in the picture, is poorly designed and needs to be replaced. Fortunately, the pulleys can be printed using FDM and require some cleaning up...

A Simple Solution to Secure the Y Axis Pulley Holder on a Cocoon Create Touch. To Prevent Slippage and Ensure Smooth Operation, Follow These Easy Steps. First, Loosen the Screws at the Front Under the Printer's Bed, Which Hold the Pulley Block in...

I was attempting to fix the problem of my GT2 belts grinding off pieces due to the poor stability of the standard acrylic Y-axis idler pulley bearing mount. I explored the designs of Bogul and slobooger, which were greatly improved but still did not...

I designed a basic belt idler using two 624zz (4mmx13mmx5mm) bearings and a holder for the idler after my X and Y axis belt idler bearings popped. I've also included the original Solidworks files so you can modify or change the parts to fit your...

It fits for the Creality CR-10 V2 and V3. ... I think it could also fit for hte CR-10S Pro What you need beside the part is - 1x 8mm GT2 pulley - 1x M8x30 Screw - 1x M8 Nut - 2x M5x15 Screw (M3 would work as well) - 2x M5 T-nut (M3 would work as well)...

It seems like you've shared a detailed guide on designing and building an Arduino-based 3D printer heat bed controller. The document covers various aspects of the design, including the mechanical structure, electrical components, and wiring. Here...

This is a lengthy and detailed text that appears to be a guide or tutorial on building a 3D printer heat bed. The author has designed and tested various components, including a heat bed, drag chain, and wiring, and is sharing their findings with the...

I've got a cheap eBay i3 clone that's broken its X-axis belt pulley holder. I couldn't find a replacement part that fit, so I decided to try drawing it up in Rhino. The holes for the bearings are 8mm in diameter with no play and are intended to be...

Soporte diseñado para placa compatible con Ender 3 y CR-10 para montar un extrusor de doble piñón modelo MK3 R4 de Prusa. ... https://help.prusa3d.com/en/guide/3b-mk3s-extruder-upgrade_186842

... printers. ... Mount your 12mm/18mm/20mm Proximity Sensor like a pro using this specialized mount designed specifically for Creality CR-10, CR-10S and Ender3 printers. ... This mount is made to hold your proximity sensor securely in place.

First, I widened the pulley receptacle so it could accommodate approximately 10mm wide pulleys. This change allowed me to use the new bearings without any issues. Next, I created recesses that were about 2mm deep for the nut and screw. Using a M5 x...

... for my heatbed, especially at its base. ...To simplify things, I revamped the motor mount and pulley bracket so they harmonize perfectly with my parallelizer, tensioner, and heatbed. ...Since my AM6 isn't complete, these parts remain works in progress.

... In the end, I reworked both the motor mount and pulley bracket so they'd fit seamlessly with my parallelizer and tensioner, as well as the heatbed's base. ...Since I haven't completed my AM6 yet, I'm labeling these parts work in progress.

This is a remix that doesn't require a separate 8mm bolt, just print and install. ...This is one of the best Y-tensioners for the Anet A8

Here's the deal - this remix is totally doable without needing an extra 8mm bolt; you can just print it out and get to installing. ...Trust me, this Y-tensioner is a real game-changer for anyone using the Anet A8.

Quería poner el conector de corriente y el botón de encendido que trae la cr-10 en el marco pero no encontraba nada que me gustaba, pues me puse a hacerlo en un momento y qui como siempre, lo comparto con vosotros. esta pensado para usar el conector...

This thing is a mount I designed for implementing linear rails on the Z axis of a Creality CR-10 printer. You will need to print two, please mirror the second one. ... Each mount requires 2 x M5 bolts of 40 mm and 4 x M3 bolts of 30 mm

This is a custom build combining a Raspberry Pi Zero W with a camera mount and an X-axis arm for the Creality CR-10 3D printer. ... Original remixed items are: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2230707 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2772167