creality cr scan ferret 3d models

Open the .fff file with Notepad or similar and edit the line C:\Users\USERNAME\AppData\Local\Simplify3D\S3D-Software\cr-10 frame-S5.stl So USERNAME is replaced so that it matches your own username So if your username is johndoe, it should look like...

My Own CR-10's Shaft Measures Between 8.4 and 7.8 mm from Bottom to Top, Which Explains Why Some People Reported Issues with the Initial Part. ... If You're Still Having Trouble After Installing This or the Updated Version, Let Me Know So I Can Help You...

I made some changes: - Can hold a bigger pen - Removed the gap and replaced the clamp for a screw with a nut holding the pen I designed this penholder for my CR-20 Pro, based on the "Ender 3 Pen holder for plotter" created by Specy_wot. The...

I designed this E3D mount for my CR-10 after struggling to find a sturdy option, and it's been a game-changer. Printed with 50% infill, this mount is incredibly solid and effective, accommodating a 5015 fan with ease. I swapped out my old Anet A8's...

I'm not sure how common of a problem this is but I recently bought a CR-6 SE and the plastic stress-relief part near the bed was broken near the screw holes. Unfortunately, the cable isn't easily detachable from the bed so rather than replace the...

This is a remix of CarstenD for my CR-10 Max with Micro Swiss hotend and direct drive. I decided to replace my broken fan with a 5015 more powerful one. (Pay attention, that the stock fan4020 has very weak soldering and once a cable felt off...

I'm not sure how common of a problem this is but I recently bought a CR-6 SE and the plastic stress-relief part near the bed was broken near the screw holes. Unfortunately, the cable isn't easily detachable from the bed so rather than replace the...

The extruder motor is positioned poorly on the CR-10, sitting too close to the Z axis threaded rod. Many users find themselves printing a filament guide due to this issue. I sought better access to the entire extruder and easier filament changes. You...

I'm reworking TallNHairyDave's magnetic base for the CR-10S Pro of hamkers' camera arm, giving it a fresh spin. I love the original design, but I had two major issues: 1) The initial magnet size wasn't readily available on Amazon, so I swapped...

A custom upgrade kit for Ender-2 and CR-10 printers brings superior cooling to the table with a 30mm coldend fan and two high-performance 5015 blowers. This results in exceptional parts cooling, making it easier than ever to manage wire harnesses. A...

All the hard work was done by Lucashayes and I appreciate him creating something ready for me to install my Titan on my CR-10. 01/10/2018: I tweaked the model slightly, beefed up certain areas, and ensured that everything lined up perfectly this...

I made this attachment to make it easier to print legs for the base of my cr-10 so I can one day put the control box underneath the printer. You will need five M3 screws(12 mm) and five m3 T-slot nuts to slide into the printer rail's. I printed the...

To eliminate the nuisance of hanging and rubbing cables on your CR-10 printer's back frame, install our Drag Chain Assembly. ...This innovative solution requires minimal hardware: * 2x T-bolt hammer slot nuts and bolts to connect securely to the frame...

I'm excited to use this simple geared knob for my CR-10 extruder. It fits most printers with Nema17 stepper motors or generally with 5mm shafts. I've found it's an easy way to manipulate the feed and a nice visual tool to spot my retraction behavior....

My CR-10 came equipped with a malfunctioning controller board fan that was grinding away, and I happened to have an 80mm PC fan on hand as a spare. Since it's designed to replace the original small controller board fan with an 80mm pc fan, this...

First, thanks to Lucashayes for such a simple, elegant solution for mounting the E3D Titan extruder in the stock CR-10 extruder location. This is just a quick remix of this thing for those of you who have the 'full size' (59Ncm) stepper motor...

I designed a quick re-make using standard bolts and nuts from my original CR-10S model. I noticed that the X-axis belt was rubbing against the frame due to misaligned positioning, so I centered it with this new part and added an angle slot for the...

I made a quick redesign that you can use with standard bolts and nuts from the original CR-10S. I've noticed on my printer that the X-axis belt was rubbing against the frame due to misaligned belt positioning, so this part centers it perfectly and...

Support for original Creality printer hotend with right mount for 5015 blower and BLTouch included. Two versions of files provided: one with threaded inserts, the other with smaller holes for two M3 screws. Aluminum adhesive protects conduit for...

When filament runs out the sensor will drop out of the filament path to allow the unload script to continue without trying to push filament back through the sensor. Designed for use with Marlin 2.0 advanced pause feature with the...

... is set to 20. It may also fit the Creality CR10, but this has not been tested yet. Two M3x16 screws (or glue) are required to mount the sensor to the arm securely. ...One M3x6+ screw (or glue) is needed to attach the bracket to the extruder plate.

This is my take on a simple slotted filament guide, designed to be bolted to the extruded frame of a Creality Ender or similar printer. Personally I prefer the non-slotted version (Here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4906124 ) but if slots are...

... with Marlin 2.0 advanced pause feature with the FILAMENT_RUNOUT_DISTANCE_MM set to 20. May also fit the Creality CR10 but untested. ... 2x M3x16 (or glue) to mount the sensor to the arm 1x M3x6+ (or glue) to mount the bracket to the extruder plate

This is my take on a simple filament guide, designed to be bolted to the extruded frame of a Creality Ender or similar printer. I also have a slotted version if you prefer (HERE: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4906975 ) I usually print on a...

If you have a Creality 3d printer you need to manually level the bed. It took me an entire day to get my bed leveled. I tried other Print tests with no good results so I created one based on the Original Prusa i3. Esentially it is a zig zag print of...

... doubles the line width so it prints 2 lines wide. which means you can use a shallower Z-Hop of 0.5mm. I also found on my Creality CR6-SE the Bezel was a little wider (96mm) so I made this a little wider and added tabs to secure it to the bezel.

In other words, while it was optimized for my setup with stock hot end and Microswiss nozzle, it should work well with all CR-10S Pro units. Please do not print this in PLA. Even though there is good clearance between the duct and the heater...

This is the lever for the Creality Ender 3 and possibly other Creality Printers. My lever has worn out due to filament entering from above, so I re-modeled this part from the existing one. I plan to have this new lever machined from aluminum or...

Might be useful for other situations too. Original description: This little yet cleverly designed piece, slips in the lower edge of the left vertical carriage to make it meet the end stop switch to bring a few millimeters extra of clearance. This...

This solves the problem some CR-10S and upgraded CR-10 have: when the Z axe slides the X beam downwards, the right carriage lower edge ends up resting against the second motor support just a tad before the left carriage lower edge triggers the Z end...