v5 vs v6 hotend 3d models

Therefore, if you use the Titan Aero, suggest leaving the original thermistor in place or else the Hotend will be 40 degrees C lower than indicated. I am compensating for this by adding 40 degrees to the temperature in Simplify 3D. I have also...

This object requires the Ormerod 2 E3D v^ Hotend Mount with Fan mount to be installed (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1005956). This object uses the fan mounting bracket on the mount to attach to the printer, and when installed with an M3x15...

Three pins on each side of the hotend is still way overkill (D sub connectors are good for 5A per pin), though. I'm also going to move my XMIN switch to the frame on the left side and route the wires through the X extrusion and then through the...

... safety measures along with additional security protocols. You may want to consider an all-metal hotend upgrade when using this chamber; otherwise, the PTFE heat insulation tube will swell due to higher temperatures, causing filament to get stuck.

Seat the bowden tube into the hotend with retaining clip. Next, put the two nuts in place (one under each arrow). Remove the stepper motor and extruder from the z-axis carriage and install them on the stepper motor housing. NOTE: I have not tried...

... settings for these prototypes are: Real Black PLA Real GLOW in the DARK PLA Layer height: 0.2mm Vertical shell perimeters: 3 minimum Top solid layers: 6 Bot solid layers: 3 Triangle infill: 30% !! Supports on !! Hotend: 210/215c Bed: 65/65c

My recommendations and settings for printing on FR4 Epoxy sheet: * ABS * Hotend temperature: 255 degree Celsius (as shown by the display) * Bed temperature: 110 degree Celsius * Layer height: 0.3mm * Infill: 15% * Speed: as low as 30mm/sec (thanks...

Here it is, the final version of my BIQU H2 hotend carriage! I've been hard at work for a long time and have had the printer running many hours on this new version, and now the carriage is complete and final, ready for proper use! This is a carriage...

My main objectives are creating a lightweight assembly, incorporating a 40mm part cooling fan, and ensuring easy access to the hotend. The Noctua 40mm fan will be used for this design, along with other compatible fans. Instead of traditional screws,...

In addition, the cards are now guided in the front and back, so that it looks neater.What you need:2 M3x30 screws, if you don't print the print-in-place version.4 round 6x3mm magnets (make sure you insert them with the right polarity!)Some glue or...

 This method is repeatable on a stock Creality hotend (I made a lot of these guys); for any other configuration there is a chance your nozzle geometry or part cooling ducts may conflict with the space necessary to clear the pieces you will add...

Providing a little (~1cm slack in heater and thermistor wires allows disassembly of hotend without desoldering or removing Bowden tube. Gently feed Bowden tube through centre hole while "opening" (or closing) accelerometer plate relative to Clamp...

I use this, set to 3mm: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1808029 This is the hotend adapter I use with my E3DV6 lite: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1835673 EDIT: Removed a bug in the .scad file pointed out by Pete. Please use the fixed file if...

This results in the Hotend being less affected by cooling, eliminating engine stops due to temperature monitoring issues. CPV 9 simultaneously cools the entire printhead and your object to be printed. With side fans running at approximately 50%,...

This sets the binder clips well out of the way of the hotend...no more flying clips LOL Update (2-29): I finally got both glasses finished and I have to say I love this upgrade. No more binder clips getting in the way, and a super easy way to change...

... screws when the belt appears taut. The hexagon hotend installs as normal. Install the heat set inserts into the extruder fan mount locations, bolt and wire everything up accordingly. ...This extruder carriage will fit a standard TAZ V notch mount.

I also uploaded a BL Touch adapter that simply requires a longer X gantry screw and is secured with two extra nuts behind/beside the hotend. Its height can be adjusted via the mounting nuts. Edit: I added a Y-Slider version with 5mm holes for...

My mounts were printed with Hatchbox PETG at 250c on a e3dv6 hotend with .2mm layer heights, resulting in extremely rigid parts. Mount 1: Lightweight and Simple The first mount option is designed for users who want the absolute least weight. It...

Hotend X Carriage -- Adjusted fan mounts for better alignment. Modified belt holes for easier mounting. Modified to fit igus bearings. Required Hardware to go along with the printed parts: 2x 370-400mm Lead Screws. I used 400mm because I couldn't...

 Experimenting with 3 and 4 perimeters (vs 2) has demonstrated there is benefit to eliminating some of the flex in the tower pieces.I recommend you print the 156DT_shaft_Base_double_wedge_Pin.stl with at least two additional perimeters...

This can be done with a breadboard to avoid soldering; using the perf board.Here is the Arduino...

... and pump jet. Updated water cooling stator bowl, uses embedded nut for more secure water nipple retention. Note water cooling is now intended to passively exit vs being pulled by pump jet (if this is insufficient let me know and I might revisit)

ABOUT THIS 3D MODELThe USS Sulaco is a fictional spacecraft that appears within Alien vs. Predator universe, namely was an important setting in the course of 1986 American sci-fi film ‘Aliens’. Aside from being a troop transport ship,...

This diorama shows the final battle between Major Dutch and this creature, also called Yautja.ABOUT THIS 3D FIGURINEThis figurine is the second part of Diorama "Dutch vs Predator". The model is saved in STL files, a format supported by most 3D...

This model is a part of the diorama of the last battle between the Predator and Major Dutch.ABOUT THIS 3D FIGURINEThis figurine is the first part of Diorama "Dutch vs Predator". The model is saved in STL files, a format supported by most 3D...

For best space utilization and access, most people would probably want them up front, space allowing, with the mainboard box on the left, close to where the main cable bundle needs to go to the X axis rail and hotend. This also reduces cable distance...

Now snake this belt under the square hole of the hotend assembly just like how it was installed before you took it apart. Loop it over and put it back into the clamp on the front side. 5. Try and adjust the belt so you have a small loop where the...

This is based on Marlin k-factor generator with Prusa specific G-codes and settings. Naming convention for the G-code files: LA1_5-"Filament"-"Hotend temp"C-"layer height"mm-"fastest perimeter printing speed"-"Extrusion multiplier"E_mult-"Prusa...

~~Water cooled [Dragon WST](https://3dhub.ca/products/dragon-water-cooling-hotend-high-flow-edition-wst)~~ 3. ~~Water cooled stepper motors~~ <br> 4. Temperature and humidity monitoring <br> 5. ~~[Filament...

SV01 Pro print head is pretty unique and proprietary but can be upgraded to all metal heatbreak, volcano hotend and dual 5015 fan.Will not work on base SV01, this is only for Pro version.&nbsp;A. All metal heatbreak</strong></h3><p>This step can be...