3d printing filament splicer

I've included them as the "Corrected" fins but left the original in case you want to print the slightly oversized ones for extra stability.\r\n\r\n5) You'll need the nose cone linked above (I used the "Base2" base for this nose) and the retainer...

The drawer handle is designed so that the LCD Knob can still be rotated when installed on a drawer or cabinet and provides tactile feedback mimicking the feel of the rotary encoder found on Prusa printers.The drawer handle consists of three parts:...

... and have removed the limit switch. If you want to lift the whole machine up so there is better airflow under the case, I advise printing these feet in TPU: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3020865 STEP file included for your own alterations.

With these horns, you will be able to make fine passes with the drill bit, so that you can cut a wood with fine drill bits or grind the copper of a printed circuit board. All this makes ScoposPlotter unique. Extensions for Inkscape v0.92 and grbl...

... for a security camera through a piece of glass. 1. As a way of passing USB and power cables through a metal cabinet. ### NOTE The OpenSCAD script generates models with errors, though the errors are fixed by slicers and don't cause printing issues.

* As an alternative, you can print the nosecone I've now included with this thing. 20% infill should be fine and it will weight the nose without gluing on nuts. There is a recess in the nosecone for the knot from the shock cord to fit. This nose cone...

The top and bottom halves of the sphere, a sliding button that goes on top and a small cap that will cover an LED in the top half of the sphere. The files has four holes that can accommodate three 5mm LEDs and one 3mm LED. The sliding button clips...

Having to make several 10+ hour prints to tune the shape resulted in some useless models and destroying those by hand took a lot of force, so I know this is strong and will hold up on very bumpy roads. See my other versions of this water bottle...

Stuff you'll need: Nuts and bolts: 3x12 2pcs (optional) 3x40 2pcs 3x30 4pcs 3mm nyloc nut 8pcs 5mm nut for GoPro mount (optional) Self-locking strap with a 20mm strap or velcro 5mm cube magnets (1or2) (optional) Instructions: Print (obviously). ...

Requires 18mm or ¾" holes in the lid and tub for mounting - use a spade bit for a cleaner cut as these containers are quite brittle.A full unit requires 1x Post (Lower), 1x Post (Upper), 2x Sleeves, 2x Through bolts, 2x Bearing Cups, 3x Arm (Hole),...

The ball-and-socket system requires one spacer and one nut to be printed and installed for each ball joint used. Be sure to install the spacer the correct direction - with the bevel side facing the ball joint (see photo, which shows a longer piece...

For printing I just made everything 50% Gyroidial infill, with ESUN PLA+. Did a bunch of pretty serious drop and smash tests with early iterations and the unit held up pretty damn well. I got the makita mount from somewhere a while back but cant...

Changes I made to existing models: * Removed cable tie bump things because they're unnecessary and just add to print time. * Added holes on the Raspberry Pi panel so you can zip-tie extra Z cables in a service loop. * Changed the PSU front panel to...

... of the column. ‘Greetings,’ said the pale Blood Angel. His portcullis-faced Mark III helm was under his arm, leaving his face bare.” He doesn't have a bolter because I already had a Heresy-era bolter to use that I attached to the printed model.

A modular board design helps with capturing the fine details of original design, as larger individual tiles can be separately printed even on smaller beds; additionally, the tiles can be easily stored. Game Rules Each player takes a set of seven...

When printing this jig, the only supports needed are below the two alignment fingers. When you import this part into your slicer software, it will likely need to be rotated to lay flay on your build surface. 1/2" PVC - Metric Drill Bit [1/2"...

When printing this jig, the only supports needed are below the two alignment fingers. When you import this part into your slicer software, it will likely need to be rotated to lay flay on your build surface. 1/2" PVC - Metric Drill Bit [1/2"...

When printing this jig, the only supports needed are below the two alignment fingers. When you import this part into your slicer software, it will likely need to be rotated to lay flay on your build surface. 1/2" PVC - Metric Drill Bit [1/2"...

No supports are needed to print this throttle! The intent of this design is to show how easy it is to make your own throttle and buttons control. STL and FreeCAD files provided. The bearings are very inexpensive and result in a robust and...

The pieces can be assembled in multiple different ways.  - Alien Desert bases: 19 different bases ranging from 30mm to 80mm, and including a desert rock scenery piece.  All the parts are pre-supported for SLA resin printing! Storyline of the...

When printing this jig, the only supports needed are below the two alignment fingers. When you import this part into your slicer software, it will likely need to be rotated to lay flay on your build surface. 1/2" PVC - Metric Drill Bit [1/2"...

This is done by a diffuser glas which is printed in clear PLA and does the job quite well for me. In my version I used four industrial 3W LEDs, but I also designed an adapter which you can modify to your own needs and put all kind of LEDs on. If...

The sensor is quite near the nozzle, but I've noticed no problems so far printing PLA at 220-230°C. You may need some spacers to reach the right probe distance in the z-axis. Carefully check if the sensor reacts before the nozzle hits the bed. The...

Just follow these three steps: 1st step: Print the most used* clip: clip_0_0.stl 2nd step: Select the clip_X_Y.stl with X > 0 for wider clip Select the clip_X_Y.stl with X 3nd step: Select the clip_X_Y.stl with Y > 0 for higher clip Select the...

Update 2022-01-17: I've started adding .stl files for Ender 3 based on measurements provided by [Nolemgib](https://www.thingiverse.com/nolemgib) (top: 25cm with screw holes, bottom 13cm with cutout at one end, vertical half 20cm (40cm can not be...

It's just not a priority at the moment. I have never printed these out for testing/fitting purposes. If you do, please let me know so I can modify/update them as necessary.</p> <h3>Motivation &amp; Inspiration</h3> <p>The Kelly Take-offs don't look...

I recommend printing "Re-ARM-fan-endpiece.stl" first in your chosen material, and then verify it fits the 80mm fan. If it doesn't fit, you may need to calibrate the extruder. Thanks to the following people for creating the models which helped me...

Since all parts are printed, it is still possible to "upgrade" here if this connection is not stable enough. Future extensions: Installation of a recess for a switch if necessary, installation of a speed control (potentiometer) Installation of LED...

# Hardware - (2) 8mm M3 Screws (per brace) - (2) M3 Hex Nuts (per brace) Print at 80% infill and above for optimal strength. I would go so far as to use PETG/ABS instead of PLA as the latter is brittle and has a tendency to fissure under...

To assemble the kit, you'll need to print: 1. Base Z 2. Base XZ 3. Base Y 4. Base bed 5. Fan start link (for X) 6. Y end link 7. High B 40° link 8. 37 high B links 9. 23 low B links 10. 11 low 5° links For the Y, start with the Y end link on the...