border collie prints 3d models

Depending on how your printer is configured you may find that some of the threads are incorrectly sized after printing. if that is the case I would recommend drilling them to a 3mm diameter and using M3x4x4mm threaded inserts. there is a widened...

My plexi has arrived and fits tightly, but it's essential to measure yourself as you build due to print expansion and margins for error in cutting. Measurements are: * Main Panels: 446mm x 524mm * Door Panels: 213mm x 524mm Other objects used in...

This is an interference fit, you may need to sand it a bit to get it to fit, my test print barely fit on my carriage. I used a large nozzle with PETG as the test, which tends to skew the dimensions a bit, if the fitment is loose/tight let me know, I...

... it seems to work better, I will try another size that reaches the top, when I reach the 35cm. Anyway, the improvement is extraordinary, the squares of the photo are printed with 1 single layer of skin and without filling. ... Translated by Google

... Use a straight piece of wire or a drill to poke through the holes after printing. 2. Cut three pieces of paperclip wire, each about 15mm long. Bend one of them 5mm from the tip as shown in the picture. 3. Stick the bent piece through the knob axis.

Here's what you'll need: * Arduino Nano or clone * Stepper motor type 28BYJ-48 including driver PCB ULN2003 * 200mm closed "GT2" belt * Some sort of power supply (I use a single Li-Io cell, 3.7V) * 3 pushbuttons of any size for fast forward,...

this is an afterburner direct drive mod for the "tronxy x5sa pro" currently the e3dv6 hotend and the dragon hotend are supported In Y axis you lost 10mm print space these things are needed for the afterburner: Cap screws M3x6 2x M3x8 3x M3x12 2x...

I printed the case parts on my Auxiliary Sidewinder X1 in PETG with a 0.4mm nozzle and a layer thickness of 0.2mm. Attention: Due to the life-threatening electrical voltage only persons with appropriate qualification should assemble and use the...

# Print Instructions: Be sure to use supports for the wall pin. I set this up so the gun points to the right to hide the screw holes. If you want to point it to the left, just mirror the gun holder and adapter plate. (I didn't test it, but I'm...

Steps: - Print the file - Slide the PTFE into its location at the desired length - Use a felt tip pen to mark the start of the contact on the tube - Take out the tube and cut it round on the outline as on the attached renderings - Replace the tube -...

Assembly I printed all parts with ASA, I glued the "5015Halter" to the component cooler with acetone. Fasten the "Grundplatte" with M3x10 screws. For the "Schlauchklemme" and the cold end fan, drill out the holes with 2.5 mm and screw in an M3...

**Gravitrax Ball wheel V1** - Difference in height 80mm - no support necessary - 3 pressure parts: wheel, gear, pillar - Printing time approx. 6 hours - you need: (motor see links) 5 x magnets Ø 5mm x 3mm 1 x M4 screw 45.0mm or longer or threaded...

Human: [Update 2019-07-01] #Don't print this as of now, at least with PLA After some days of usage I've noticed the spine parts and/or assembly are not sturdy enough. The combined weight and dissipated heat from the components (around 250 W under...

My old wooden LED bases are simple and elegant, but now I've created one that can be printed with ease. The distance between the LEDs is adjustable, controlled by turning the outer ring of the base. This allows for a customizable lighting experience...

**(update 2017 October 12th: it's okay with an original extruder)** For future designs, I am considering rotating some degrees towards the front the connectors for the chain between the extruder and the X-Motor because as you can see on the...

... I have not mounted the printer, controller, and power supply on a base board, so the wires to the controller are not cut to length. It's still pretty messy, but I'll do it once I'm happy with the design and fix everything down. Happy printing.

To extend the rear arm tubes, you will need: Forward (forward): L:120mm D:15mm Backward (backward): L:130mm D:15mm Printing Information for Parts 80% PLA for power elements and 30% PLA for the rest of the parts. Setup Requirements For this...

edit 26.05.2021: Add more pictures with the end stop and also the length of the shaped tubes, detail picture of the brass nuts, add the link for the ball bearings, update the print settings. Please keep in mind this is not the cheapest one...

Instructions You'll need 4 of the mosaic feet, and four endcaps - each should be printed with a .3 layer height and no support using an infill level of 15%. As for me, that was enough. A 5/16" length of threaded rod will come in handy as well as...

Separating the parts : I recommend to cut as far as possible the bridges formed during the print between the 2 parts before introducing the truss screw in its hole and, only with this screw in its position, finish breaking the bridge by turning...

Here's a poorly recorded video of it running on 100mm/s: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GovX9jY8XzE ## Change Log 2019-05-01 * Moved the Horns Duct to a separate thing: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3600021 2019-04-24 * After some testing I no...

I highly recommend printing these with PETG rather than with PLA. Also, the magnets can be difficult to insert. Use a flat thick metal tool placed over the magnet while pressing down with your thumb. It's designed to be a snug fit so that superglue...

\nThe changes from vanilla Marlin 1.1 are listed below:\nPrint required items:\n- Left Fan Duct\n- Right Fan Duct\n- Extruder Fan Duct\n- Strengthened Extruder Mount and Spacer\n-Z Probe Mount\n- Extruder Mount Lancewood\nPrint Settings:\nPrinter...

Due to the adhesive discs on the wind turbines, a print bed with at least 210x210 mm is required. There are 5 different lids. With NabeTest you can adjust the bearing seat of the wind turbines with scaling in X and Y. The labyrinth ring is glued to...

... no claims on how well the design is structured... I'm still learning the application. Print Settings Printer Brand: Creality Printer: Ender 5 Rafts: No Supports: No Resolution: 0.2 Infill: 10% Filament: iSANMATE PLA Black Category: Electronics

I printed all the parts with PETG, 5 perimeters, 40% Infill. The EndPin for the optical endstop must be black (or painted with a marker). They will require support in places where there are nuts or countersunked holes. I have included a small test...

Below is a guide with very simplified photos in Italian and English versions, and at the end of the article the settings used in print (at least for me.) Good reading. Hoping to have done something pleasant for the community, thank you very much,...

This was a substantial enterprise that involved making the spheres, printing the gores, building sturdy stands, packing, and distributing them across Europe. Mercator was also renowned for his scientific instruments, particularly his astrolabes and...

It's just not a priority at the moment. I have never printed these out for testing/fitting purposes. If you do, please let me know so I can modify/update them as necessary.</p> <h3>Motivation &amp; Inspiration</h3> <p>The Kelly Take-offs don't look...

I added a calibration spiral and scaled it for printing. Attention: my firmware has been modified for me; it is crucial to edit and define the printer options, DELTA_HEIGHT and DELTA_DIAGONAL_ROD. Note that the motor directions for my TMC2100...