dual axis joystick 3d models

1/4" or 6mm threaded rod framework featuring a robust 2-axis block design, specifically engineered for seamless integration with 608 bearing blocks and Nema 17 motors boasting 20mm spacing holes. ...Consult Thingiverse designs 1789405 and 1789415 for...

I've attached this support to the second Z-axis of my Alfawise (additional kit, not factory installed). To try it out, you might find that some users get improved results with it, while others prefer not to use it at all. ...In my experience, the added...

To solve this issue, I redesigned all the Z Axis using two 8mm rods and drive it with two GT2 belts that are driven in sync by a single motor connecting the belts with a shaft and pulleys. The results are outstanding - virtually no bounce, and none...

I designed this belt fixation for my Geeetech I3 Dual Extruder Metal Carrier as a beginner's project in OpenSCAD because the original clamp couldn't keep the band snug enough for precise prints. I'm grateful to all OpenSCAD contributors for creating...

Remixed the rear bracket as the original hangs over the aluminium meaning you can't add an oldham coupler if you are running a dual z setup. This is essentially the same bracket with a 5mm section chopped off the bottom I use this oldham...

This upgrade will require: -BLV Kit (AMZ:BLV Ender 3 Pro 3D Printer Upgrade kit Dual Driver Extruder Screws Heat Bed Plate Also Compatible with Ender 3 Pro V2, Not Including MGN12 Linear Rail) -6 m3 nuts, 8mm m3 botls/screws (AMZ:DYWISHKEY 360 Pieces...

This is my custom take on a X axis cable management system. After experiencing the predictable failure of an X motor cable, I needed to find a way to make this area of my printer more manageable. All the chains I came across on Thingiverse were...

My solution was to re-design all the Z Axis using 2 8mm rods and drive it with 2 GT2 belts that are driven in sync by a single motor connecting the belts with a shaft and pulleys. I am VERRY happy with the final results. Virtually NO Bounce NONE. A...

... series. Currently, I'm using an E3D-v6 extruder with a 0.6 MM tip. Future upgrades are planned for the X-axis, but the Y-axis has already received significant improvements, including a new motor and metal gear as well as a metal ball bearing idler.

My solution was to re-design all the Z Axis using 2 8mm rods and drive it with 2 GT2 belts that are driven in sync by a single motor connecting the belts with a shaft and pulleys. I am VERRY happy with the final results. Virtually NO Bounce NONE. A...

Made a self-contained idler pulley for the single motor, dual Z-rod mod. Features a spring housed inside the block and relies on a 688zz ball bearing for smooth operation, secured in place by two M4 x 35 machine screws and two M4 T-Nuts that mount it...

I upgraded to the second dual Z screw on my Ender 3 Max and needed to relocate the Power Supply so I made this bracket. Make sure you ground the power supply! Printing: Infill - 30%-100% (I like 100% for structural components) Supports - No ...

I upgraded to dual Z motors using a Comgrow CR-10 kit on my Ender 3, which necessitated a PSU mount and led me to design a simple one. This should smoothly slide into the extrusion and securely fasten to the PSU with two bolts mounted on the tallest...

PARTS: 1x 2040 profile 350mm 1x 2020 profile 280mm 2x 2040 corner angle bracket 1x 250mm MGN12H (must slide without binding) HARDWARE: To attach the 2040 profile to the printed bracket: 3x M5x45mm ISO7380 Hex Socket Button Head screw 4x M5X16mm...

1x M5 Nut 2x M4x12 Screws 2x M4 T-Nuts 2x Z-Axis Rod Supports - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3377129 Step 1: Install the idler pulley in the main body with an M5x20 screw. There's room for a nut on the bottom if you want, but my M5 threaded...

This design allows me to remove the entire X-Axis without touching the rest of the frame. You will also need a suitable GT2 pulley and I pulled one off here that was long enough. I used pulleys and spacers I also had in my parts bin. ... Almost...

Credits to the original maker: Really like the adjustable part of it and also the axis play which it can have. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5564158 What I didnt like is that it needs to be mounted on the roller which needs to be pressed...

... material from the aluminum profile. See the picture with the slot. I had to make the slot both wider and deeper. Source code here (OpenSCAD): https://github.com/spegelius/3DModels/tree/master/CR-10_S5_Y_Axis_motor_bracket Category: 3D Printer Parts

... -1x motor coupler. -1x Drive motor that matches the specs of your printer's current motors. Personally I recommend swapping the feed tube or Y axis motor so your Z uses the same make and manufacture, but this shouldn't really be necessary.

To tackle my X axis cable management issues, I designed a variation on an existing chain. Previous chains either provided too little flexibility, caused excessive bending, or lacked support methods. My improved chain design doesn't require support or...

Its really a huge difference at high speed because at the right of the z axis it move a bit in Y axis You need a ender 3 for parts Something to bend or cut metal Equipment for soldering OR The complete kit cost 50$ on site like amaz0n 15$ @liexpress...

... apart and remove some material from the aluminum profile. See the picture with the slot. I had to make the slot both wider and deeper. Source code here (OpenSCAD): https://github.com/spegelius/3DModels/tree/master/CR-10_S5_Y_Axis_motor_bracket

... up with servos. Despite not being a perfect design yet, it has produced quality castings and handles molds up to 100lbs. The rotating contactor enables power transmission through the horizontal axis to drive spinning tables holding molded resins.

In the process of upgrading my Sovol SV01's mainboard I ran across the problem that the existing stock X limit switch mount, which is part of the x-axis NEMA 17 Motor Mount system and pulley cover, limited the available space on the printbed in the X...

Yet another tweak for the K8200 Z-axis to stop wobble, this time using standard M8 stainless steel rods and an anti-backlash system featuring regular M8 hex nuts for those who already have a different stepper motor and flex shaft coupler on hand and...

Thin parts will bend easily, causing small increments in the axis to be ineffective, such as z-hop. A rock-solid part is now available. To improve stability, I recommend longer screws and an adjustable motor mount like this:...

After struggling to get the Z axis at a 90-degree angle to the Y in my bot, I had to tinker with and redesign a set of Z-axis guide supports that allow for fine-tuning the angles to reach 90 degrees from the 88 degrees that my bot seemed to be built...

Thin parts will bend and for small increments the axis will not move, for example z-hop. Rocksolid part now.</p> <p>Need longer screws and an ajustable motor mount like: <a...

... available on Zahnriemen24.de In constructing this build, I chose to mount the horizontal top bar first and attached the angle brackets beneath. By doing so, I was able to gain approximately two centimeters of height for my z-axis motor setup.

The plate is also designed to allow for a larger Y-axis stepper motor (I'm using a 4248, which barely clears, larger steppers will also work, but you may need to sand the bottom side of the mount just a touch for clearance). I initially used...