easythreed x1 firmware 3d models
19274 3d models found related to easythreed x1 firmware.prusaprinters
You should ensure your printer is on the latest firmware before using these, or roll your own using the provided STL.I have included a fuzzy skin gcode option, I am interested to see if this increases the stiffness of the funnel due to the random...
thingiverse
(For best results, perform your own PID-tuning.) Using Repetier-Host, go into [Config] -> [Firmware EEPROM Configuration] Change the following parameters: Extr.1 heat manager [0-3] = 1 Extr.1 PID P-gain/dead-time = 7 Extr.1 PID I-gain 0.5 Extr.1 PID...
thingiverse
To rectify this issue, I updated my Marlin firmware and modified the #define X_MIN_POS to -14, which solved the problem for me. Moving on, I needed to install a blower/cooling fan. Given that I had already printed the hotend holder, I was left with...
thingiverse
Add some self-adhesive anti-skid pads at the bottom Upload the firmware and make actions in Photoshop done Required parts: 5V Arduino Pro Micro 29 Cherry MX Switches 1 tack switch (for reset) Rotary encoder (optional) WS2812B Led Strip (optional)...
thingiverse
This will work great with the Original Prusa printers and anyone else that supports the M600 colorchange (Wanhao i3 Plus with ADVi3++ firmware for instance). UPDATE Sept 25: ================ I noticed that if you significantly resized the width of...
thingiverse
Advantages of this include: * Much lighter than the acrylic hunk that comes with the sensor * Sensor height can be adjusted with much higher precision using a screw and spring, without updating firmware or hoping you've kept it steady while...
thingiverse
... easily without being too loose or too tight. There's one configuration of the guides where this will be the case. It may take some time. When everything is built together, edit your firmware to the new endstop positions and you're done! ...Enjoy!
thingiverse
I also included a body for the idler side of the printer in case you need to place the sensor there or use two endstops in your firmware configuration. One full turn of the adjustment wheel moves the sensor 0.5mm, providing a total range of 12mm. If...
prusaprinters
This folder contains a mix of modified and original files.NP5 Firmware:Still incomplete, this contains all of the Arduino code for running the blaster. I was in a hurry so D6 is shorted to A7 (which is unused) so that the connector can be kept on one...
thingiverse
TUNING_TOWER COMMAND=“SET_HEATER_TEMPERATURE HEATER=extruder” PARAMETER=TARGET START=225 STEP_DELTA=5 STEP_HEIGHT=10 SKIP=1.4 https://www.klipper3d.org/G-Codes.html?h=tuning_tower -------- ~~(updated thanks to gregsan)~~ ~~Here is the command to do...
prusaprinters
Requires:2x M2.5 hex nuts.2x M2.5x8mm screws.Change logFrom V1:Rotated the extruder and printhead so that they both face forward, which allows for use of the Bondtech LGX FF 5015 fan shroud and makes swapping nozzles or servicing hot end easier.Added...
prusaprinters
Hi PP i am posting here my project, i am willing to modify one of my prusa mini to direct drive extruder and more sturdy frame like Bear. If you want the Haribo version check it here:...
thingiverse
You'll need to adjust the printer's firmware so that the steps-per-mm matches the new thread. To do this, connect to the printer with your software of choice. In the GCode input field type M501 (this will read all your printers eeprom settings). My...
prusaprinters
Of course, to use the two latter items you'll need to flash the Gotek with Keir Fraser's excellent FlashFloppy firmware. Files Gotek_Panel_FSB_Centered_Rot.stl Gotek_Panel_FSB_Centered_Rot_One_LED.stl Gotek_Panel_FSB_Flush_LEDs1.stl...
prusaprinters
I have the kit from V1 engineering for hardware, and Y plates made from 1/2" MDF, and there was enough. If you can set the switch offsets in firmware, you may not need the plungers or the #6-32 screws, as the switch can be activated directly against...
cults3d
The SMuFF has an dedicated servo for this (wiper) tool and supports it through its firmware. In case you'd like to use this tool without the SMuFF, you have to control it through your printer controller (i.e. Marlin) and add the code needed...
thingiverse
Necessary parts: 2x Noctua NF-A14 iPPC 3000 PWM 12V (the 2000 or non-iPPC versions will work, but restrict power) (https://noctua.at/en/nf-a14-industrialppc-3000-pwm) 1x Noctua NF-A6x25 FLX (or similar 60x25mm fan for the PSU, absolutely necessary...
thingiverse
... It's a great place to connect with like-minded individuals, share knowledge, and learn from one another. To make configuring the motherboard even easier, I've included the firmware in the files. ...Happy building and printing, everyone!
thingiverse
Resonance - I use the Klipper3D.org firmware - it can compensate for resonance with the input shaping method. URL: https://www.klipper3d.org/Resonance_Compensation.html No changes needs -------------------- There are ready-made water-cooled...
thingiverse
Witness: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=gKRgGeHHhjM (Note: video shows older design, but performance is the same) No Firmware change required! However, you may want to make some changes for convenience. See assembly instructions. Indirect filament...
thingiverse
Always keep thermal runaway detection active in your firmware. I had to install Marlin 1.1.9 for this feature to work on my machine. It's also crucial not to leave 3D printers unattended, however we all have lives to live and this is not always...
thingiverse
However, you'll still need to enable auto bed leveling in your Marlin firmware - that's a bit of a tricky topic, but I'll try to answer any questions you have in the comments. Edit April 10, 2016: I found that the previous version of the probe...
thingiverse
Kossel Marlin installation: Kossel Marlin installation. Kossel Delta Calibration: <a href="https://www.lpomykal.cz/kossel-bed-calibration-marlin-fw/?thingiverse" title="With a Title">Kossel Delta Calibration</a>. Kossel PID calibration: <a...
thingiverse
No firmware changes are needed! You also need one number 1 thread insert to fix the extruder bottom to the X carriage on the left upper side. I'd like to thank all the people who have developed better extruders, especially Pekcitron, RaavHimself,...
thingiverse
Read on to the design section and I'll share a semi-secret that's holding you back if you've never monkeyed with the stock Anycubic firmware settings, too! Anywise. Also see the design section for all my reasoning that led to this design. You'll...
thingiverse
This should happen automatically, without any drama.Important: I replaced my N4P firmware with a standard Klipper version, so your printer may need individual adjustments. Look at the component names and compare them with your system. Another small...
youmagine
That also means that to use the bigger print area this needs custom firmware, or @Amedee builder's ttp://bultimaker.bulles.eu/ using X/Y inverted probably. BUT I haven't tested that path yet since that requires much more time. So far UMO shafts have...
thingiverse
Two hall effect thumb throttles and an Arduino Nano to control it, contact me if you want the firmware for this. A bunch of 10mm outer, 8mm inner LEDs for the rear light cluster and status LEDs etc. The N79AX from Maplin was what I used. Loads of...
thingiverse
Please refer [this github repository](https://github.com/opiopan/simhid-g1000) regarding manufacturing of PCBs, how to assemble this device, compelling and programming the firmware, and how to use this device. If you modify this design, Editing...
thingiverse
Navio 2 Case: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3251955 Sled for Zephyr V2: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3301160 GrabCAD: https://grabcad.com/library/zephyr-v2-1 Non-printed parts you'll need: 2x 300 mm carbon fiber tubes, 16 mm outer diameter...