geekup bit 3d models

My Ender 3 Pro and the upgrade board 32 bit board both needed to be re-calibrated from stock. 2. You may still need to use the initial layer horizontal expansion (Cura) in your slicer to manage any remaining elephants foot. 3. Flow rates for your...

You can set all objects in PrusaSlicer, for instance, and go over the “Printable” toggle (the eye icon in the object list) to export each one, ensuring that they fit nicely. The models generated for print-on-print with this customizer have a bit...

You wont see insane speeds on an ender 2, and an 8-Bit board will still be fine. That said, if youre doing the 24V conversion, you could also look into using an SKR v1.3 Board with TMC 2208/2209s. That would also make a very nice and silent printer,...

This also makes it a bit shaky when you slide/move it. ...Remember: The system is not meant to be rock solid, but functional and clean looking.&nbsp;</li><li>To move the glider, simply pull it, change the position and push it back...

It allows the full width of the Prusa MK3S hotbed to be used.Regarding the 1:50,000 scale print, quite a bit of resolution is gained, now the peaks or needles can be counted in tens and many characteristic features of the mountain can be...

Probe offset (on mine) is X -49.0 Y -8.4, but measure, and update your probe offset.2/3/24Updated the duct files, specifically the right side I tweaked quite a bit. Now I have really good centered air directly under the nozzle. Suggest if you printed...

The cover for the power distribution was a bit of an overkill for this project. If I do this project again, I will integrate the PCB mounts into the side of panel2 between the two legs and not cover the PCB. Since everything is insulated, space can...

To make it a bit more aesthetically pleasing I added another section of the 4” pvc pipe to the top of the body and cut out a windows on both sides, similar to how it looks in the game. The last two pieces to add are the Front Bumper and Butt Stock...

First, apply some glue at the sides to bond the Hopper to the Enclosure and let it dry for a bit, while drying you can take another piece of Candy to congratulate yourself!! Make sure you didn't glue the Hopper to the...

I know it is a bit complicated but I didn't know how I could make it easyier the way I designed it)HandleDepth25mmIf your printer needs more tolerance, you can also adjust this parameters&nbsp;Naming conventionThe Example is with the standard size I...

I also added a little bit of detail here and there. The model is designed as a 35-mm gauge (which I define as the horizontal distance between the centers of the wheels of this prototype train, so the actual distance between rails will probably be...

If you cut around the ears, the effect is less impressive (at least in my tests it was).Depending on the model and the haircut you may want to cut a bit of the Hair (horizontaly) on top and reduce the mesh count again.Export as STLsclice&nbsp;My...

Ultimately, I needed a little sanding and a little bit of CA glue.For printing, the model has been designed for printing on a Bambu P1S, this means the sizes of the main parts are sized for a printer that is 256 x 256 x 256 mm. Please keep this in...

You may, however, need to add support to the bolt head recess in the centre of the Handle.Each part will fit on a 100mm x 100mm build plate, with the tallest part being 65mm high.Post-PrintingAll the fixing holes will probably need to be eased with...

Printed with five walls, five top/bottom layers, 0.4mm nozzle at base 48mm/sec speed, slowed down a little bit for this and that. ...Hotend 250c, bed 75c, 70% fan after three layers.</p> <p>Black beams are printed in JAYO PETG (super adhesive, removed...

6×4mm is probably a bit too soft. AIR COMPRESSOR -------------- I currently use an oil-free 23l/min airbrush compressor with tank, “AS186”. However, that’s not the best choice, at least for longer jobs: This air assist has a 2.0mm exit nozzle. ...

I completed some basic programming to show the movement of Ninja:   https://youtube.com/shorts/zjgVOHkwsz4A bit of philosophy:  Often we build these projects and just insert code someone else wrote and hope the project works. This is not the nature...

All of the above along with unfinished cooling duct of the cyberfooks1 design caused me to decide to try my own skills to make a plate for Hemera for Tronxy X5SA Pro, addressing all above issues, adding a bit of rigidity and tuning everything to be...

It is possible that the motor still leaks a bit of air, this is inevitable due to the 3D printing process but it can be mitigated by proper seal dimensioning and careful assembly.The LegoMountBlock can be attached to the motor housing and provides...

Don't use filament brands that tape the end to the unreachable inside part of the spool (!) and make sure to clip off any bit of filament that may snag the spool at the end (you can usually reach the inside end of the filament through the hole in the...

The stop-blocks should line up.(Recommended) Screw a countersunk M4x17 screw (Could be a bit shorter) in the hole on the GoPro mount, to secure your camera from falling off. If you don't have a suitable screw laying around I atleast recommend you to...

Case is a bit cramped. Adhesive cork for the bottom Wheel weights to add weight/friction Build log: https://www.billiam.org/2019/05/29/sherbet-an-ergonomic-keypad To-do list Done Use different method to secure wrist rest to case. Probably using...

thick wooden dowel (I bought the 2 of the 48 in long ones from home depot )a saw of some sortsoptional some sort of tapeoptional a drill bit smaller in diameter than the threads if a #4 screwDIRECTIONSIts Easiest to start by printing off all the...

I know that it is a bit tricky but tell that to Mitutoyo ;)Secure the assembly with some electrical tape. (It is the best thing I found as it is very thing and stable in case of heat or electricity).<img...

### CrOD - Creality Orbiting Dragon ##### High Performance Toolhead for Creality CR-10 and Ender Series Printers I created this toolhead in my quest to squeeze the final bit of print performance and quality out of my very heavily modified CR-10S Pro....

This was my first modeling project specifically for 3D printing and while some elements may be a bit janky, the final product is something I am very proud of. This project would not have been possible if it weren’t for other great creators who freely...

Some are full height, some are a bit lower. Buffer beam shapes seem all over the place as well… I just picked two versions that seem to be quite common. - Long hood: apart from endless variations in doors and air gratings (again, I just picked 2...

Slots were added give a bit of adjustment. Tool_Fan_Duct The Tool_Fan_Duct was taken from Mini Fan Duct. It’s very thin and clips into place via a detent in the Coolend_Fan_Duct. It does wobble a little and in one of my experiments collide with the...

Pushing the Ball and Bolt assembly to the top of the Body will require a bit of push, as it has to get past the inner retaining ridge. Once the Ball with bolt is positioned, screw the sleeve onto the threaded end of the bolt. Step 2. Push the Base...

Keep the remaining bits in case tyou change your mind so you can reassemble your TrackClip Pro with no more damage than a couple of soldered wires. Remove the support and clean up any residue with a sharp knife or scalpel. Once cleaned up the...