nested platonic solids 3d models

Here also the reduction value horizontal holes apply.Bottomholes: 2 if you want a cutout in the bottom, 0 if not.Frontholes 0/1: 0 if the front should be solid (for battery cases to insulate the contacts), 1 if the width holes for the back wall also...

Also this video was in development for a solid few months, and during this time the new ELRS telemetry feature called Mavlink-RC was released. It can use only one pair of TX and RX to achieve both RC control and Telemetry, and from what I read it is...

These are not needed with the software I use (Estlcam) Mounted an MDF printbed, for which I printed some solid PLA spacers for the right height Mounted an LED strip to create some more light Updated the firmware to allow for G2 and G3 commands, which...

I painted the solid bottom half black and printed the thin divider parts in player colors which gives them a nice accent, but this requires either an MMS or pausing printing at layer 5 or 6 to swap filament. These would be fine in pretty much any...

The tank should be as solid as possible so it doesn't leak bubble fluid. My first tank with 20% infill, two perimeters and two top/bottom layers leaked -- it didn't render it unusable, but it got soapy on the outside and if you left the tank full at...

Still nothing solid. I attached it if others would like to help improve it. Note that in the top section there are 'home' values for each servo. While I did center my servo horns on the mechanical 'center' of the servo, when I set the value to 90...

 Note: While I was able to locate m3 stud thermocouple sensors and attempted to use them, I found that they either did not readable by the firmware, had odd and inconsistent temp fluctuations, Where not corded long enough, or had a max temp range of...

For solid formations: Supports: Should not be required. Rafts: Not required, unless you experience adhesion issues. For hollow formations: Supports: Should not be required for the outsides of the shards, but some hollow formations may require...

Pretty much the same as v1.5/1.6 but is one solid printable part. Take care to slice supports in a way that doesn't cause them to form inside the duct.DESCRIPTION BELOW:I've spent several hours slowly chopping away at the original Satsana model for...

This is a fully solid-state version for 3d-print, this is not a scan version. At the photos you can see the contours of the models on screens with stl or obj files, it is enough to understand the possibility of printing a model or producing a...

The fit is intentionally quite snug which, combined with the layers of material on the pin and hole acting as ratchets against each other, makes the fit quite solid. - Block Insert with Bearing: The thing that spins, and is used for all Cases. -...

This cut a LOT of time from the print and because of the tile structure, the part gets solid enough even with 0% infill because there are multiple points joining the underside and the top side. But I would not recommend reducing perimeters to one,...

The Printermods.com Linear rail adapter for the Ender 5 MDD (The solid L shaped newer version, not the open Letter-D appearing older adapter) did not allow proper seating of the Gantry_Clip_6. Uploaded a revised Gantry_Clip_6_V2 listed below for use...

I included the solidworks file in the download if you can pop that into another CAD program, otherwise you could modify the STL directly using tinkercad or by importing the STL as a solid into another CAD package. Note that the cap holes are NOT...

No print support needed!This is an as-is project, will not improve it any further.It works great, cooling is better than stock, it's solidly attachedonly downside is limited visibility on the nozzle.This is a bit weird to setup due to the metal plate...

This is a fully solid-state version for 3d-print, this is not a scan version. At the photos you can see the contours of the models on screens with stl or obj files, it is enough to understand the possibility of printing a model or producing a...

The solid ball was simple to make and printed flawlessly. It's hard not to love its design! On the other hand, the hollow ball joined by pins cut from filament prints effortlessly as well. You could even add a little bell inside if you'd like. I used...

Ideally each ring should be as close fitting as practical, but obviously if too close then the whole set of rings becomes one solid lump of waste plastic. This is largely down to the clearance between rings (horizontal gap between the rings) designed...

... hold back on shells and infill where it matters! The Frame should be printed close to solid, same for the backplate and the y axis! ...These parts contribute alot to the regidity of the whole printer!</p>

This is a fully solid-state version for 3d-print, this is not a scan version. At the photos you can see the contours of the models on screens with stl or obj files, it is enough to understand the possibility of printing a model or producing a...

It's cheap using 1.5 inch ABS ABS Pipe are solid, hard to brake Cons: T shape are not 90 degrees more like 88 degrees, but this is not that much of an issue anyway we can stretches theme... Hard to cut lines on the tour (carriage are in the pipe, 2...

This is somehow compensated for in the thread guides in the clip, but I don't think there is a perfect solution.Example Setup  Printing and AssemblyPrinting the PartsFilament Type: PETG or similarOrientation: Place the correct flat side on the bed so...

You take no responsibility if your prints are insufficiently solid and drop the tablet on the floor! (see instructions for tips). You will obviously need a printer with a sufficiently large print bed for the holder_main part. The OpenSCAD file for...

I used my MMU2 to do it on my Prusa machine, but this could also be done by just leaving out the lettering STLs, and doing a color change on the first solid layer above the lettering, so you can have the face in one color, and the case and lettering...

This is a fully solid-state version for 3d-print, this is not a scan version. At the photos you can see the contours of the models on screens with stl or obj files, it is enough to understand the possibility of printing a model or producing a...

Honestly that struggle is why I rarely swapped nozzles, as getting a printer to work can be enough challenge and I didn't want to risk messing anything up. I started with https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3441470, even bought the official metal parts...

Use the following infills for best results:table clamp frame: 100% (it really needs the strength)table bottom-side protector: Can be done with little infill (like 15%) but make sure the top side is solid all the way till the screw hole, as this part...

Also it is useful to select a filling option, but I don't know what the difference between the 2 is…Like this I made all the cuts and dragged the undesired parts away with the move tool (M key)Here I could start printing, but I wanted to add a little...

&nbsp;Left click on the Ok box, and left click on the Finish Sketch box.I printed the case in PETG, 2 vertical shells, 2 solid layers top and bottom, 7% fill density and gyroid pattern. &nbsp;This makes the case light weight, and if it were to be...

This game deserved… nay… demanded a trombone controller!This is an Arduino 32u4 powered custom controller for the video game Trombone Champ! http://trombonechamp.comI had a few design goals with this:minimal unique partsno screws or fasteners -...