x carve upgrade 3d models

x_end_motor.stl from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3716110/files > bear_extruder_x_axis_mk3s.zip Plus, download and print: 1. z_motor_mount_front.stl 2. ...z_tops.stl from https://www.thingaverse.com/thing:2808408/files > bear_full_upgrade_mk3.zip...

This is an upgraded version of the Qidi X-Plus 3 Carbon Filter that comes with the new models. This may require modifications of the back panel. If you don't currently have the carbon filter installed there is a template and instructions that are...

An X/Z axis upgrade for the 3018 CNC machine. For 16 mm linear shaft X-axis. For 10 mm linear shaft Z-axis. Extra strong design. An 80x40x4 millimeter thick aluminum plate should be attached to the rear side. This increases the rigidity again.

The same printer was used for all parts, but a build volume upgrade took it from 100mm x 180mm x 180mm to its current capacity. The problem is that the aluminum is either not flat or the bed is sagging, making leveling hard. Using a heat bed PCB from...

To make life easier, I've added built-in supports for the X spacer - a thoughtful touch that lets you print multiple items at once without having to worry about tedious support structures everywhere. ...However, be aware that supporting the screw holes...

This is the x-carriage designed for my upgrade set using 10mm steel bars and bushes on my Prusa i3 Steel derivative. Comprised of two parts held together with M3 cap screws, it's made for four by twenty by ten mm Oilite bushes. The X-belt is simply...

Built in upgrades: Dual Z Endstops Fully Supported Rods Screws in places you can get to Reuses what I felt was good enough Needs Work: The X Limit Switches a little early, so you cant get the full bed, but this will be fixed as soon as i get a...

To alleviate persistent hot-end problems, such as melted PEK insulation, I opted for an upgrade. ...I successfully installed a modified E3D v6 hot-end on my Felix printer.

However, I had some trouble fitting the internal components into my A6 X carriage. Also, I was confused as to what hardware (nuts and bolts) I was supposed to use to make it all work. So, I re-worked it using vernierroger parts as the starting point....

... I also made a remix of awesome belt tensioner https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3670659 which is compatible with Hemera upgrades. THIS IS STILL WIP! CURRENT VERSION HAS 2022 SUFFIX! ...(Previous version is fine, but 2022 is better.)

Fiz esse projeto para resfriar um pouco o motor do eixo X da minha EasyTheed K1. ...Reparei que o eixo X, e especialmente o Y, esquentam muito, poderia acabar aumentado o desgaste da correia ou ate mesmo derreter o plástico, imagino eu... ...

... new ones. Next, clear the motor mounting hole by cutting a section of the bar clamp under the motor. Secure the motor using longer M3 bolts (12mm x 3, 24mm x 1, also used for bar clamp mounting). ...Finally, install the belt to complete the process.

Be careful ! ...this version does not integrate the K40 X-axis limit switch. I plan to replace the original optical switch with a mechanical one. ... This is designed for 2XLM10UU bearing and 2X10mm linear shaft (42 mm length).

I adjusted the X axis length, expanding it to 200mm. Check out this YouTube video: https://youtu.be/yziHKVHqQz0. ...Make sure to update the bed size setting within Repetier Host to reflect this change.

This is a protective housing for the X-axis motor on my trusty Tormach PCNC1100 machine. ...I crafted it with precision using durable resin and the capabilities of my reliable Form2 3D printer.

You will need a couple of screws and nuts: 1x M3 40 mm 1x M3 30 mm 2x M3 nuts Instructions: Get the right side of the X-axis almost completely apart so you can remove the original bearings holder! Decide whether you want to keep the original right...

Next, slide the X-axis_Tensioner_Adjustment_holder.stl part into its correct position and start reassembling everything. Once it's back together, attach it to your printer and put the belt back in place. To achieve proper tension, turn the M3 screw...

If you want a belt tensioner, this one will work and help to align the wheels better on the X carriage. The belt will be able to be adjusted using a m3 screw, I used 2 x 30mm m3 screw. ...The belts is tie rapped on the sliding pieces.</p> <p>You need to...

This required redesigning the x-axis and extruder carriage, along with purchasing an extension for the makerslide. Although still a work in progress, the extruder mount is customized to my extruder and hot end, with room for other designs. However, I...

... créé par Bleugh, cette modification permet de rigidifier le système original, qui est bcp trop souple et imprécis dans sa première conception. Cette modification améliore beaucoup la precision sur X. ... A imprimer en PETG a 100% de remplissage.

This is a more robust design of the Folgertech FT-5 X idler assembly using more commonly acquired 608 bearings, also widely used as skateboard bearings, designed to be a drop-in modular assembly for the originally equipped components. I welcome all...

I've tweaked Alex's initial design, but the tube was way too long to fit my full filament roll snugly inside the X-Max lid and it kept shifting around. I had to shorten that tube and adjust the opening to match the size of the black feed tube that...

For the carriage itself, I discovered another part that needed some tweaks, so I modified it for improved belt clearance and a more effective x-stop arm. Additionally, the openings were adjusted to fit M3 screws and nuts perfectly in line with each...

BOM: Extruder stepper: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PNEQ79Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Extruder:https://www.matterhackers.com/store/printer-accessories/e3d-titan-extruder-universal Hot...

If you're looking for a belt tensioner that will help align your wheels better on the X carriage, this one should do the trick. To adjust the belt, simply use an M3 screw - I opted for two 30mm screws myself. The belts are secured to the sliding...

In terms of design requirements, an original setup necessitates a 20-tooth pulley to align the belt parallel to the X-axis. However, I designed a hook for the mini gantry that enables the use of a 16-tooth pulley, ensuring belt alignment. ...You can...

\r\n\r\n====================\r\nCons:\r\nYou lose some X Y and Z space.\r\nX284 Y240 Z290\r\n\r\n====================\r\nBuild tips:\r\nUse CF-nylon for printing. Don't use PLA or...

This is my solution to adding 5015 blowers to the Creality CR-X. It fits on the original mounting holes and can be installed without removing the hotend assembly. It prints without supports, and assembly is pretty straightforward (see section below...

Upgrading the X, Y, and Z axes presented a challenge when it came to implementing an X-axis endstop for the single extruder stock carriage with its original placement. To resolve this issue, I designed a custom endstop using Sketchup. ...Installation...

Biqu B1 X-gantry limit switch and hot end carriage plate upgrade Here is my upgrade for the hot end carriage plate because the original one doesn’t allow upgrades and the proprietary USB-C connector and cable is quite fragile and some users reported...