3d printed floating shelf

Blocks with other angles can easily be modeled and printed if needed. It should be noted that the complementary angle to the one shown on the gauge can be mitered by placing the material against the other face of the miter gauge. The shooting...

Suggest the flange include a recess for the ring, then if wanted you can print a ring in TPU to assist with air leakage. Does not appear to be required.</p><p>Note, changing any of the settings (diameter, magnet size, alignment ring...) will change...

It's essential to print this component in HIPS or a similar material that's more heat-resistant than PLA. I've tested it with PLA, and while it works initially, it deforms and becomes brittle over time. Additionally, the cooling duct was designed for...

I still drilled the pivot pin hole (you can't fix it if it prints too loose, right?). Note: If you don't have an Arrma 4S car to scavenge for parts these probably aren't any use to you. I had the parts so I made these knuckles and C-hub so I...

Disclaimer: By purchasing this product, you can print and collect the pieces. This does not include a commercial license, if you want to sell them, you must contact with us to expand reproduction rights. Although this collectibles are inspired by an...

(I've worn them and they're actually not uncomfortable) List of the parts needed to print: 2x Nanami_rim.obj 2x Nanami_pads.obj 1x Nanami_nose_bridge.obj The rims are perfectly symmetrical, so don't worry about having to mirror them or anything. The...

Print the board and 16 pieces. Cults will not allow me to upload the rules document so I will paste bellow. Object of the Game Be the first player to move all four of your colored pegs around the game board and into your FINISH line. During the...

Install Klipper and make use of your Pi's processing power to speed up and improve your prints. There is a [good guide on reddit](https://www.reddit.com/r/klippers/comments/kj2h5r/stepbystep_guide_for_ender_3_v2_klipper_w_bltouch/) for setting this...

The V1 frame weighs about 10g, while the V2 frame weighs around 8g when printed using PLA. My entire setup (currently based on the V2 base and the V1 top) weighs roughly 38g without the battery. It is specifically designed to support motors measuring...

Printing without support is required for this fan duct. Secure the fan with 2 M3 x 10mm screws and attach the duct to the carriage using 2 M3 x 25mm screws, with nut traps built-in for additional tightness. All measurements are in mm. #Response...

If a defined limit is exceeded, a signal is transmitted to OctoPi and the print is paused.Zusammenbau/AssemblyElektrische Bauteile/Electrical components:Die benötigten elektrischen Bauteile können dem Schaltplan entnommen werden./The required...

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3107686 Ich habe diesen Laserkopf von Cloudray:...

- Decreased gap to 5.4 to match the dial indicator (added 1.305mm spacer, with odd shape for printing without supports). - Changed hole to 6.53mm to match dial indicator, and made special bolt to act as a pin for a tight fit. - The hole is now 7mm...

I am modifying the original glass print bed to a fine-machined aluminum cast plate. I purchased this here: and used kit 4 with GFK/FR4 plate 1 mm and flat clips. Here is a brief description of the process: 1. I removed the four adjustment wheels...

So that fits best.DO NOT PRINT IN PLA! PLA can't withstand the summer heat.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>#############################################</p><p>Ich mochte den originalen Becherhalter für meine E-Klasse nicht, also habe ich mir einen eigenen...

Since the housing is hollow when printed with infill, it might tend to swim. So I recommend to drill some small holes in the outer shell to use the infill space for ballast water... The shaft should be 10mm in diameter and ca. 80mm long and made...

Originally published here: Mars 1962 reconstruction scaled one in sixty million by tato_713 - ThingiverseThis is a recreation of what the scientists though it was Mars before the first missions arrived to it, the Mariners. The model was made using...

... a small riser to get my cheap red dot (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A36MKUO) to the correct height for a good cheek weld on the taller dust cover. I recommend 30% infill and PETG for printing. ...If you have any issues or remix it, let me know!

So here we are about three months later with something that, after quite a bit of brainstorming, parts printing, carbon cutouts, messes and success stories, looks ready to be shared with the community. And now, it's over? Well not...

It is parametric and you can change the angle that is printed within Solidworks by going to the equations section and telling it how tall is your frame (370mm) and how far out will the all thread touch the wood (mine is 200mm). From that the equation...

I increased the tolerances a bit in the last version 1.1 but I didn't printed it because the version 1.0 is already working good for me (after sanding). So I hope it will be ok for you. Anyway, you will still have to remove the supports and sand...

Here is the rewritten text in American English, without any foreign characters, and with a Flesch-Kincaid score of 100%: Here's a simple drying box for your filaments to make: Materials list: * 3 pieces of plexiglass, 350mm x 350mm, 4mm thick * 2...

* As an alternative, you can print the nosecone I've now included with this thing. 20% infill should be fine and it will weight the nose without gluing on nuts. There is a recess in the nosecone for the knot from the shock cord to fit. This nose cone...

Hardware needed: 18x M3x8 (or longer) bolts 18x M3 nut 1x M8 threaded rod for spools (length 172mm when fixed midway of box height) 2x M8 nuts and some washers as spacers between spools 2x Pneumatic air quick release fitting with 6mm diameter thread...

Print the holder, of course 2. Upload the two G-code files and run them without the holder and gauge, just to be safe 3. If everything works out, fix the holder with the existing fan screws 4. Install the NEOTECK gauge and... 5. optionally, use a...

This wasn't an issue with the stock hotend, as its use of the default mounting points would keep everything stable, but as the E3D v6 is meant to be supported only by the hero me itself I noticed a change in print quality for the worse. What I...

(I would definitely suggest retracting when fitting the slider as it is a tight fit, and you could damage the tip of the wiper during assembly) I then recalibrated using raw data, and it is very smooth and accurate I printed this upside down with...

Replace the top thumbscrew to prevent inadvertent opening of the blaster.Print InstructionsBecause of the structural nature of the parts, I suggest using 5 or more walls and 25% or higher infill. No supports are necessary; place the rear of P1, the...

I also made the spacer shaft shape wider so it is not as hard to print, nor as fragile to handle. I also eliminated a few of the sizes that I felt were not necessary. --- This is a PPC (Pixel Pipe Clip) spacer tool that will help you accurately...

Geoff Gregor's notes on his R2a modification state: "Summary: Nut pocket slightly bigger, screw head pocket much smaller, less damage, no more slop, screw stays aligned for happy printing (hopefully)." After struggling with a squeaking belt on my...