anet a8 hotend 3d models

The purpose of this thing is to attach MGN12h rails to the tops of the extrusions without requiring a new hotend or any motherboard modifications. This thing mostly utilizes the stock parts that come with the TronXY and has been sized to...

... v1.step If you want to see the BIGTREETECH PITFTV2.0 remix for this AiO case, please see https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4948847. If you want to see my Hotend setup for my modified Ender 3 Pro see https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4941029

NOTE: this is a reversed mount, the hotend fan faces RIGHT, not left. I chose this mainly as it places more weight closer to the M5s and it puts the Nozzle a lot closer to its original position on V6/OEM mounts. Meaning less confusion about offsets...

I hated the noise of my printer, so I added Noctua 40x20 silent fans to the hotend and part cooling, a Noctua 80mm fan to the PSU. To do the PSU fan I had to raise the printer with the mentioned feet. After that I wanted a place to store all the...

I remixed the Hero Me Gen5 - Base 7 for the Mosquito hot end to be light, tight and tiny by using Slice Engineerings 25mm hotend fan. I also included an M10 Installation tool and Plunger to help apply downward pressure on the M10 coupler to...

Changes to be mounted by pressure from tightening down the microswiss hotend. Saves some screws and is plenty sturdy. b. Changed the fang shroud mounting mechanism to accommodate 1a above. c. Changed the shroud mounting position to be in...

added a diode to regulator not feeding back the fan circuit (they share same ground so put on red cable) End result and tests: @240c hotend and 110c bed temp and 23c room temp under constant 180Watts of average load, fan never kick in for full power...

Future plans include building an all-aluminum cold end that can be coupled with J-Head and E3D hotends. Stay tuned for more updates! You can view a detailed walkthrough of the printer in action on my YouTube channel: ...

It's also beneficial to insulate the hotend or cover it with a silicone shield. I removed mine for the photos, though there aren't any parts close enough to the heat block to cause any damage even if you are printing without insulation (safer...

✅Cadeneta (escalarla al 125%): https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2920060 ✅Tensor eje X: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2854971 ✅Tensor Eje Y: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3097972 ✅BondTech DDX:...

... The Titan and the motor sub-assembly can be taken off by undoing the 3 long screws at the back, while the original Bear design allows for just 2 bolt easy access to the hotend sub-assembly. ...So the entire thing is relatively easy to service!

Update 9.8.2022 Printed a Y axis limit switch holder (STL aded) in order to adjust the bed position to new hotend position. The original stepper motor cover/end switch mount must be cut on bottom side in order to clear the new end switch...

One thing that might be advisable is to move the hotend to the end of the gantry as it's likely to move itself! They also make great handles to help move the printer! If you would like them longer or shorter, load them into tinkercad, cut them...

The following components are used in building: * 2x 8mm linear rods * 4x LM08UU linear bearings * 1x TR8x8 threaded rod * 1x 608zz bearing * 1x NEMA17 stepper motor * 1x clutch for joint motor and threaded rod * Numerous M3 nuts (M3x15mm, M3x20mm,...

... tubing I had lying around. In regards to length of each connection from holder to centre, I used trial and error to place the extruder at a height which doesn't obstruct the main hotend cable from either the highest position to the lowest.

Hardware needed: M3 Brass Inserts M3X10 Bolts – 8 M3X20 Button Head Bolt – 1 M3 nut - 1 M3x40 Button Head – 3 I used these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DIUJEPU/ BMG Clone E3D V6 hotend with heatsink clone Pancake motor There are 3 parts. The...

Change your Cura settings to: Start G-code: ; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code M211 S1 ; enable move limits (for security!) G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder G28 ; Home all axes M104 S{material_standby_temperature} ; Start heating up the nozzle most of the way...

As a result, there's much less noise and the temperature of the part from the hotend that needs cooling is also lower. I added just 1mm holes for the screws on the fan, so you can drill them out to any size you need for your screws. The small notch...

Do not use this hotend duct without silicone sock on heatblock ;) BOM + non printable parts: > Carriage: >>1x Main Body - print ABS >>1x Nozzle Fan Duct - print ABS >>1x Radiator Fan Duct - print ABS >>2x GT2 Belt lock >> 4x LM8U MISUMI linear...

The failure was a simple one; I foolishly lowered the temperature of the hotend to the point where the extrusion stopped altogether. Not to be deterred and running out of time in the early hours of the morning, I pulled the plug. I removed the gears...

The dimensions of the main MC350 cuboid are 390mm by 390mm by 400mm, and the enclosing volume (including the display, extruder, and feet, but excluding the spool holder, Bowden tube and hotend wiring) is about 405mm by 475mm by 415mm. ##...

A similar-sized alternative can be found here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M09NAG3/ref=psdc_7073960011_t2_B01M1JR65I) Adapter for Micro USB Mavic Cable to USB-C:...

Be aware that machines might have different nozzle heights so you may need to shim this part up higher to get the correct 8.3mm offset (measured between the hotend nozzle tip and the base of the BLTouch sensor). This part is 1.75mm thick and is...

An X-Carriage that holds those bearings with the two bolts used to fix the J-Head hotend. But because we all need to chill PLA during the printing phase I added a third component to blow the thermoplastic during extrusion with a 50mm fan. It was an...

...Before tightening the skrews enter 2 filaments so that they go into the hotends below, Make sure the filament moves freely, then tighten the 8 motor skrews. ...Tighten them evenly a little at the time in a xrossvise pattern for the best possible fit.

The idle head remains inactive, thus preventing the dripping of molten plastic on the piece being printed.Simple mode:Print with a single head either on the right or on the leftDuplication mode:Print the same model with both heads simultaneously,...

Positioning the angle of the ducts too high causes problems with the hotend, while placing them too low may not cool the correct area enough and can also direct flow down the side of the print and into the heatbed. It seems that placing the two fans...

E3D V6 hotends and Noctua fans have a unique relationship, which I've experienced firsthand. While my A4x10 setup worked well initially, I anticipate that summer conditions will push it to its limits. To address this concern, I upgraded to an A4x20...

Additional parts needed: This is an updated version of Kakadu's ingenious Reprap Neo e3d v6 hotend upgrade (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:971035), together with an adapter for the GRR Neo to mount a lefthanded Bondtech BMG as a direct drive...

Deve essere lungo 7 centimetri, va inserito fino in fondo all'hotend (quindi fate molta attenzione) mentre la porzione che esce va inserita nello sherpa. Alla base dello sherpa mini c'è un piccolo foro esagonale nel quale si incastra il bowden. La...