anycubic i3 mega filament not feeding 3d models

A failed thermistor wire can lead to thermal runaway which may or may not be handled by your firmware, and worst of all, if you have an AC heated bed like I do, the danger is even bigger if the wires or solder joints break. So I designed this very...

After all the cablechains I printed myself could not withstand the high temperatures in the closed box my printer stands in, I decided to buy a ready-made cablechain and only print the holders myself. Holders are designed to work with:...

Thanks to Prodal for the remix of the camera mount Because I'm using a different (not self printed) Raspberry case I had no use for the slider at the side of the clamp. So I just removed it, everything else is just the remix from Prodal. I'm still...

... hex keys from rattling, and added a spot for my favorite pliers. The smallest hex key is a little tight but it fits. I also added quite a bit of support between the attachment and the tray itself. Not sure if it needed it, but never hurts right?

I have not printed the 4 blade version but it should work just as well if not, even better :] I would recommend printing in PETG, for better durability and resistance against harsh temperature fluctuations. ... I've also included the PTC Creo project...

Remixed this from jancarstens LED Strip for Anycubic I3 Mega. Not designed as a replacement, but as an add-on item. It snaps right on and gives a nice-looking almost professional appearance. Many self-adhesive LED strips don't adhere well to PLA,...

Remove the filament from my printer, disconnect the green main cable from the nozzle, and take out the 4 screws I marked in the picture. 4. You can remove the piece with the fan now, of course disconnecting the cables first. 5. Take out the two...

I grew tired of the standard i3Mega hotend cover because it severely restricted my view of the nozzle or was incredibly tedious to remove and replace, not to mention it got in the way of accessing the connectors or constantly messed with my camera's...

Not wanting to settle for zip ties as a solution, I chose to experiment with Tinkercad. Please feel free to modify and use my design. To attach this component to your case, simply add two M3 screws (M3/10mm is more than sufficient). From the...

... to add weight. Full print with 4x4x4 walls/top/bottom and 38% infil came to about 48g in weight. Glue in lettering and spade. Star may need minor sanding but should push fit into the space tightly and not need anything else to secure it.

... fan shroud and align it with the Volcano's mounts, ensuring a secure fit. Secure the new fan shroud by replacing the screws or clips, making sure they are tightened firmly but not over-tightened, which could damage surrounding components.

Crafted specifically for 37mm umbrella poles, this solution may also work on sizes ranging from 36-38 millimeters, although thorough testing has not been conducted. If you find this innovative idea valuable, consider making a donation to my PayPal...

The holes also did not fit with the chain I used : https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B07Y6769LL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I also drilled a hole in the chassis to better route the cables and avoiding to change them. ... You will...

There's no need to remove the protector from dust and moisture just to put on a scratch protector - that's not a phone. Version 2 is thinner and distortions are smaller, barely noticeable. ... And some people can write complete nonsense all they want.

This sleek and stylish fixture is not just a pretty face; it's a game-changer for any room in your house. With its minimalist design, this baguette-shaped luminaire blends seamlessly into any decor, from modern to traditional. The LED technology...

In addition, an additional holder at the hotend so that the teflon hose can be led backwards a bit, so it does not bend when larger prints at the upper edge of the printer. I shortened two elements of the chain by cutting off part of them to enable...

2) Do not insert the extruder wire into the gap provided by the extruder side mount, as it may be damaged when the z-axis reaches its maximum height. 3) The hotend side mount might be a bit tight, so be careful not to press against the x-rods. For...

The problem is that Simplify3D requires a toolchange script for filament changes, and the provided script needs to be adjusted according to the specific setup. The script should start with T0 and set the correct color in the right extruder depending...

Can still refit the Base Cover if you wish to, though I do not feel it is necessary. ...I did have to extend one of the Mosfet connections to the Mainboard, you can see the joiner near the middle of the two fans, though this will depend on the Mosfet's...

This design also includes an extruder, as the stock one is not functional. The extruder is identical in design to https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2832065, but with a slightly modified fix part. ... To install this on the left side of your printer,...

I designed it for 2 screws but my fingers are not small enough to get to the top screw. So its running on only the bottom one now. EDIT: This is a third version, shortened the leg also strengthened the arm, seems like those are pretty good...

Surprisingly, the mainboard's power consumption is very low when not driving the hotbed or hotend. As a result, you no longer need oversized wires. ... This holder fits seamlessly with the stepper driver fan duct and Noctua fans, which can be found on...

... and it comes with the v6 heatblock, so it fits inside the part fan; just need to orientate it properly. Materials: 2x M4x30mm screws 2x M4 nuts 2x M3x15 1 M4x4 captive screw (not necessary, just holds the part number 3 and is just for aesthetics)

... at 200°C extruder temperature and 60°C for the base, with a resolution of 0.2mm and 20% infill. Printing took approximately 4 hours and 30 minutes.\r\nPlease note that the STL file preview is not accurate due to different settings used in Fusion360.

... A straightforward method of testing them is to plug them into the power supply (but not the main control board or heatbed) and check the "heatbed" terminals: if there's a current flowing, then the MOSFETs are defective and will damage your machine.

... any need for modifying or destroying something. The cam slips into the block and holds by friction. If not, there is a little hole where you could put a small piece of wire, a needle, or a tiny screw into it that would fix the cam into its position.

The "Extruder Mount" requires supports only around the motor to prevent sagging, while screw holes do not need additional support. Layer fan settings should be set to ABS, but due to its distance from the heater block, it may also work well in...

... taking out the camera from its case. The ribbon cable can be routed through the mount to prevent tangles. I printed this at draft quality since appearance was not my primary concern; functionality took precedence. ...I hope you find this helpful.

Not enough space, so I remixed the original design. You don't need to remove the metal top plate for the hotend or move the cables. Just print two of the bolt remix's, secure the backend and cooling fan with them, and enjoy the added bonus of using...

Required parts: - 4x 608ZZ Bearings (same as used in skateboards) - 4x M3 Screws (I used M4x16) - 4x M3 Nuts - 2x spool-holder-side-1.stl - 2x spool-holder-side-2.stl I printed two sets of parts one straight and one mirrored but that is not...