artillery x1 firmware 3d models

As always, it is good to post questions in the relevant forum (anything mainboard/firmware settings related, go to the Duet Forum etc). Some printed parts will need Tapping of threads. Print Settings Notes: I recommend printing these parts out in...

I had been using fabal's excellent adjustable SN04 mount for quite awhile until I upgraded my firmware to Marlin and got fixated on its ability to do mesh leveling. The main problem with that sensor mount, and in fact, with most of the ones I've...

When you do the firmware modifications, set the Z probe offset to zero (you don't have to do it this way, but that's the way that worked best for me). Tip: If you can't get your probe high enough because it hits the motor, lower your E3D by putting...

You will also have to change the direction/rotation of the X & Y steppers in your firmware! 30 January 2020: Further rework on the part cooler(s), with one version for each of the two hotends( Mosquito & THC-01). 29 December 2019: _X-carriage...

Managed to get 4 hours continuous use (350c / 5S in firmware) from a Makita 3AH 18v battery. ------------------------------------------- Battery Clips ------------------------------------------------------- Clips for battery should be printed at...

The other problems I'm trying to solve are: - development of print profiles for different materials on a slicer like IdeaMaker since Cura, of which Creality Slicer is a clone, I don't like much (even if it works very well!) - creation of a...

This offset the probe, so be sure to correct it in your firmware!My settings are: X-0.5000 Y-1.7000 Z-18.63As it's a female dog in heat to input this into the closed source Repetier fork FLSun uses for the Q5, I flashed Marlin 2.1 (Thanks Foxie!) to...

I'm currently running variant B, but have a spare chip and programmer, which I plan to use to load variant A (and possibly customize the firmware if needed). The Sketchup model for all these pieces is included as well. Post-Printing Assembly Once...

You may have to adjust your Y home offset to make sure the positions are accurate as on the old frame depending on how your bed is triggering the end stop but that's a simple change in the firmware configuration. I also use a BLTouch for my Z...

This means there is no need to change ducts, or change the probe height or change Z off-set in printer firmware when swapping hot ends.More Rigid. The extruders mount to the same monolithic piece of plastic as the hot end. In edition there are...

He's got some excellent firmware, as well. Check it all out at https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/7690-tzb-mk3smk25smmu2s-extruder-mmu2s-no-tower-v2 It's highly recommended. For other Prusa MMU stuff:...

I've got the firmware available also if you're interested. I had to figure all that out, and I can save you some time. I've not uploaded Arduino programs before, and they seem kinda tricky because they have all sorts of files and whatnots. Build...

Wi-Fi Control Setup Install the latest MicroPython firmware on your ESP8266: https://micropython.org/download Hook the brown/black wires of the servo to the ground pin on the ESP8266. Hook the red wires of the servo up to your 5V power source (on...

RC aircraft firmware is still in development now, but I've been able to hover 450-sized helis earlier with a previous version of this control set. Just have to clean the code a bit. I have been flying DCS: UH-1H with it for a month and it seems to...

Also, if you are looking for how to get your firmware and slicer upgraded to work with this then check out my other thing here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4298762. ***UPDATE 29/03/2020*** The version 2 base is complete. The cooling...

# Slicing and Firmware: This modification places the nozzle exactly 11.5 mm in the -Y direction (toward the front of the printer) from the original nozzle location. This means that the nozzle will be too far forward when the printer homes. It also...

Upload the “firmware”(which you can find on github here: https://github.com/fluetke/sandclock_fw)9.Solder wires from your dc-barrel-jack onto the RAW(+) and GND(-) pins of your arduino, then connect your Arduinos VCC, GND and the motor pins you...

\r\nDefinitely run a tolerance test before starting this build, some good ones:\r\nhttps://www.thingiverse.com/jeffnope/collections/3d-printer-calibration\r\n\r\nThe extruder mod works great for feeding flexible material\r\nSome parts need to be...

... size). 2) Added an external USB-B port and relative on/off switch for being able to connect the printer to the computer in case I need to flash the firmware (used a 2-way USB-B switch). I'll post soon the relative files and photos. ... Enjoy!

This modification is to enable the full print volume of the Prusa i3 MK2.5,MK3, MK2.5S and MK3S when fitted with a Volcano heater block and nozzle without any firmware changes. Included in the modification are adjusters that fit between the...

Currently playing with firmware things so give me a few days. I've realized the failure/rattiling is a two-headed problem. The z-axis bracket (to which the x-axis is bolted on my ender 3 v2) has some y-axis directional wobble. That means (for...

It is nice to be able to change the settings in the printer without having to re-flash the firmware every time. I have also added the klipper config file for the A10 in the files section. I have also installed the yellow bed springs and dual...

Using DYS BE1806 motors, HQProp 5040 carbon mix propellers, HK Blueseries 12A ESCs with SimonK firmware, KK2 Mini, OrangeRX Spektrum Satellite. I used Cura to slice at 0.2mm for my Mendel90. The tail may need a little support, and the front runners...

Marlin-RC firmware also included in downloads (Marlin-RC.zip) If anyone plans to build something like this, I recommend using a 12mm heat-bed plate (rather than 6mm) as the aluminum plate deforms up to 5mm when heated to 90 deg C, I am using 9 x 9...

My USB port is firmware-disabled by Samsung, and I connect over WiFi so that I can place this hub away from clutter and closer to other wireless devices. If printed using a filament that contracts/shrinks ever so slightly, it may be a good idea...

You're doing this at your own risk, I'm assuming a certain degree of competence in soldering, flashing firmware on Arduinos and so on. Don't continue if you're uncomfortable with making modifications to hardware. Do not be on fire. Installation...

Note- to get my XYZ to calibrate with the Prusa firmware in my printer, I had to move the y-axis/frame to about 97mm from the frame- that's down from Prusa's recommended 100mm. This means that the the power supply holder here was designed for that...

Managed to get 4 hours continuous use (350c / 5S in firmware) from a Makita 3AH 18v battery. ------------------------------------------- Battery Clips ------------------------------------------------------- Clips for battery should be printed at...

I used a Teensy 2.0 and QMK for firmware. Because I installed the switches and soldered all of them before re-designing the plates, I needed to improvise to get the rigidity I wanted (hence the weird screws in the picture below). Here is my terrible...

This change required me to reprogram the Z-axis steps per mm setting in the printer's Marlin firmware. 2] Print these four parts I designed, either individually or in pairs using the included files. 3] Remove the X-assembly, Z-axis rods, and Z-axis...