duplo block 3d models
70605 3d models found related to duplo block.thingiverse
Put the freshly assembled block over the bottom part of the mold (picture 9). Make sure the holes match ! 3. Put the mold top part over the whole thing, secure it using the last M3 screw (picture 10) and tighten. Only thing left : fill the mold...
prusaprinters
I used Wago connectors, but simple wirenuts or a screw terminal block will work. Use M3 screws to secure the lid to the plate and the PSU. I intentionally drilled the holes slightly too small so the screws would thread against the case. Not ideal,...
thingiverse
There is enough room with this setup to grab the heat block with pliers and unscrew the nozzle for nozzle changes without removing the duct -- I checked. It is set up for a short NEMA 17 motor (part number 17HS10-0704S, but should work with the...
thingiverse
Also, I need to build bearing blocks for supporting capstan, and build a mechanism to drive it. I'm currently thinking 1/4 inch metal rod for capstan and printed bushings/adapters for a good fit with inside diameter of 608 skate bearings. As of...
thingiverse
To prevent the cooling air stream blowing at the hot end / hot end block, I made a (blue) 'oversized coat' from an aluminum beer can. It is held in place by the screw that clamps the heating element. First heating up rendered quite interesting,...
myminifactory
I print my pegboard pieces using an Ultimaker 2 with an Olsson Block running a 1mm nozzle. The prints in the included photos were printed using Verbatim PLA in White. With this setup, I can print durable pegboard parts at a 0.5mm layer height and...
thingiverse
I've included a zip file with PrusaSlicer project files if you'd like to see where I added support blocking, etc. Most parts should be fairly self-explanatory. COMPONENTS 1x Left, Right, Top, Face Plate, Nubbin, Paddle, Trigger, DMS, TMS, CMS, Trim,...
cults3d
you can use one of these in place of one of the USB power boards if you are powering a bed heater that draws more than the Duet's 18A circuit can provide: http://amzn.to/2ozFxFg - Lugs for two 5-pin Wago connectors (221-415) to be used as terminal...
thingiverse
https://www.biqu.equipment/products/btt-sfs-v1-0-smart-filament-sensor-detection-stuck-blocking-filament-module - One M4x10 screw with a T-nut for top mounts (or 2 or 3 for the more cantilevered ones). - Two (optional) M3x25 screws to hold the...
prusaprinters
One of my outlet ducts snapped to this should correct it. 3- Eliminated the small gap where the heat sink cooling fan was allowing air to hit the heat block. -I have lowered my standard fan to 50% ( was 70 in the notes above ) but maximum is still...
thingiverse
I ended up using the fan guard mounting holes for attaching the fan and duct to the bracket, and then later switched back to the mounting holes on the fan duct when I changed the orientation of the extruder block. All in all, it works well and is...
prusaprinters
Invert the smaller end piece, such that both openings are on the top.Attach the top and bottom X mounts to the drag chain, using two M3 countersunk bolts and nuts per side.Screw the bottom moving mount to the two rightmost extruder carriage bearing...
thingiverse
• The fan duct should be printed in ASA or ABS since they sit close to the heat block. The other parts can be printed in PETG. • Print the fan ducts at 0.2 height and use adaptive layers for the best success. Installation Notes ...
prusaprinters
Everything here on this design still works sufficiently to extract your fumes, but the additional option uses the desktop fume extractor with a larger blower fan and will move more air from the enclosure if you prefer. See x2 photos I have added...
thingiverse
You can block out the supports under the cable-guide overhang because I've placed three support pillars there that will enable the printer the bridge the initial layer. Trust me this is much better than trying to remove the supports from that...
thingiverse
Be aware that the stand blocks access to the gears, so you'll have to remove it if you want to play with the heart. If you're interested in supporting my projects, check out and share my Working Lego R2-D2 YouTube channel at...
cults3d
Then we apply the glue on the other side of the pins, but we make sure that no glue gets to the back leg and it is not blocked, and we close the other half of the body permanently this time. This completes the entire construction and all that...
prusaprinters
Make sure the balls, plungers and spring move easily through the hole without binding on anything.Solvent-weld the two halves of the bolt head.Solvent-weld the shaft into the back of the bolt head.Solvent-weld the two halves of the hitch bar.Using a...
prusaprinters
This design fits on a Prusa i3 MK3 bed.Note: Please only attempt this if you already have some experience with soldering, wiring and electronics in general.Note: Some ATX PSU's may be too deep for this design so if your PSU is over 135mm deep it may...
prusaprinters
I have to actually tap my bearings in using a flat block of wood and a hammer but once they are in, they tend not to come out! Given the variance of printers I can't guarantee your printer will yield the same results as mine. Your bearing might be...
prusaprinters
I will be cutting blocks of plywood or timber as I feel its just a waste of plastic and printing time. I need to print like 20 of these things. When installing this clip I highly recommend putting screws through both holes to avoid the clip...
thingiverse
If not, just use one support block at the end of the long rod. CAUTION! Because this is all plastic, turn off the candles every time you've used the pyramid. PLA has a low melting point. I made the design as safe as possible. The structure won't get...
thingiverse
This design also "relocates" the speaker from the back of the Tile Pro to the side so that when you strap this onto something, it doesn't block the speaker. **"Screws - Flatmount w Speaker"** is the same as "Screws - Flatback with Strap and...
thingiverse
For easier cleanup, it's essential to set the Shell Top/Bottom Pattern to "Zig Zag" instead of the default "Lines," and enable "Print Thin Walls." The final thing you should do in the slicer is block supports at the locations in the picture provided....
thingiverse
**9V_base_Cover.stl** This is part of the original design for the Desk tidy/lamp, this piece slots into the sides of the Hubble_Lamp_1 series of models to block off the electronics. **Hubble_lamp_top.stl** This is part of the second set of...
prusaprinters
If you print cleanly, the imitated terminal block fits perfectly into the bottom of the shuttle - alternatively you have to file it down a bit.First the angle was fixed to the wall, then the white base frame was pushed on, the black support on top...
thingiverse
The engine bells are too large in diameter (now fixed!) and the front/rear body blocks areas might not be quite the right length (hard to tell, the model does match the reference drawing pretty closely...). I tried to improve upon alpokemon's...
prusaprinters
The idea is to don't remove it.The design will always keep the bases against each other and strong enough to hold the bowls with food. For advanced users only. The printer: I printed on a MK3S+, nozzle 0.40, but 0.32 layer height which is...
thingiverse
and taping the connectors to block UV rays once the frame is assembled and in place. I used PETG and protecting it with tape works. Tape also has the advantage of being able to smooth any protruding bolt holes to reduce net snagging. Something paint...
thingiverse
Upload it here and share with the community - Basic FanDuct "Blade" for Volcano Nozzle [can found here](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6361267) **Supports** - Extruder BIQU H2 V2S **with your Volcano Hotend** (or the proprietary Lite) - The...