y axis 3d models

(all the wooden parts anyway :P) Instructions The extruder platform and y-axis with endstop have been modified with a place to run a 1/4 x 20 threaded rod with a nut on each end to keep the entire y-axis from wobbling or shaking too much. With...

Be mindful not to tighten the Y-axis bearing clamp until it is bolted down. The Y-axis baring bracket contains 4 M3 knuts captured within. The X-axis belt clamps necessitate 85mm-long M4 studs, which screw into captured knuts adjacent to z-screw...

The mendelmax 1.5 y-axis faces severe overconstraint issues; for a detailed explanation and solution, refer to bilsef's post (http://goo.gl/U2XJN). To resolve this, one rod must be constrained vertically only using an idler, follower, or 180-degree...

... was 11.54mm, so subtract the corresponding difference from the top of the block for optimal results. For best printing outcomes, align the major axis along the Y-axis, as this will ensure the allowance is correctly positioned on an uncorrected bed.

Y-axis belt tensioner, as a replacement / enhancement for one of the Y-axis shafts. requires: 2x 2GT H-Wheel 20 Teeth for 6mm Belt Bearing 5mm Bore 2x M3 screw 30mm can also be a little shorter 2x M3 nuts 2x M5 hexagon screw 2x M5 nut (lock nut...

The idea is to hard mount the Y-Axis motor directly underneath the heated bed and design a way to hard mount the rack to the aluminum plate. Then i will use the motor and spur gear to drive the build plate. Does anyone have any experience with this...

The installation adds extra support to the body housing the Y-axis and second Z-axis steppers. This is the first version of this, and I will probably be updating this soon. So far I've done several short prints with these in place and one 9-hour...

The mount provides additional support to the body housing the Y-axis and 2nd Z-axis steppers. This is the first version of this design, and I will likely be updating it in the near future. So far, I've completed several short prints with these...

The MK2 frame has shorter Y-axis extrusions and the bearings on the left side of the bed are very close to the frame, which limits the print surface to 210mm. This issue made me decide to create my own mod. In essence, I moved the left side MGN12C...

https://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-i3-mk3-f30/fine-tune-your-mk3-y-axis-t13851.html#p63653 Fine Print: You may need to use a 12 mm M3 screw instead of the 10 mm M3, as this mount is slightly thicker and requires a longer screw. The rest...

...The MK2 frame's Y axis extrusions are 20mm shorter and the bearings on the left side of the bed move very close to the frame in order to reach the entire 210mm print surface. This wasn't possible with JuanPuchol's design so I decided to make my own.

Here's a fully braced and supported Y-Axis mount that replaces the original one perfectly, making it useful for other Al 20-20 profile machines as well. This design shares similarities with Thomllama's but has some key differences - my version is...

Important Update (30/12/2019) ----------------------------- Version 1C added, featuring diagonal support legs and enlarged Y-Axis tensioner square holes measuring 8mm x 8mm to accommodate various designers' Y belt tensioners. Version 2 introduced,...

Your particular application may vary with the difference in height between the 3030 extrusion and your Y axis bed plate. I needed to add two washers as spacers to maintain alignment of the lead screw from the motor to the idler bearing. I found the...

The MK2 frame's Y axis extrusions are 20mm shorter and the bearings on the left side of the bed move very close to the frame in order to reach the entire 210mm print surface. This wasn't possible with JuanPuchol's design so I decided to make my...

... the adjacent bracket, followed by a washer, both bearings, another washer, and finally through the other bracket where you'll secure it with an M5 locknut. Once done, adjust the belt tension, tighten the screw, and ensure the y-axis moves correctly.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2601219 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:619347 All you need for the mod m3 screws m3 nuts threat rod 120mm and manifolf female to female M10 smooth rod 550mm glass 200x300 plate 200x300 heatbed mk2a 300x200 mosfet...

I decided to replace it with iamburnys' RepRap_Pro_Ormerod_iamburnys_Y-axis_BeltClamp_Parametric (thing:263720) from Thingiverse. However, the belt kept slipping out of place, so I added an extra screw and some nut holders to tighten it down...

I attempted iamburnys RepRap_Pro_Ormerod_iamburnys_Y-axis_BeltClamp-_Parametric (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:263720), but the belt kept slipping out, so I added an extra screw and some nut holders to really clamp it in tightly - combined with a...

In the quest for the most rigid Ender 3 Pro in the land, I stumbled across this model: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3343666 from mlynch002 and made some changes.Changes:Repaired and remeshed modelResized Holes to M5Added flat version without...

Rather than using a large 3D-printed geometric bracket anchored to the primary threaded rods to stiffen the acrylic plate, this one uses new threaded rods near the Y-axis belt. Print 4 of these brackets, 2 for the front of the printer and 2 for the...

To adjust the y-axis belt tension, the original setup required flipping the entire printer onto its side and manipulating cable attachment points to tighten the belt. This process quickly became tiresome. To address this issue, I adapted a similar...

The Y-axis motor mount component failed on my HICTOP printer. The motor was slightly swaying back and forth while printing, causing the belt to become loose and skip steps in the process. This resulted in a misaligned Y-axis position. I removed the...

I assembled them all together in one spot, and I modified the Y Axis Motor Mount so that the hole near the bottom goes all the way to the bottom. This makes it easier to replace or move wires if needed. The original Y Axis Motor Mount is still...

Most chromed rod bearing Y axis upgrades are either too large or completely unusable for me in my setup, so I needed a simple solution that doesn't require a huge print and has a minimal footprint that won't interfere with other mods I already have.

For the front of the y-axis, I recommend Simhopp's design: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1430727 Edit: You'll need two additional M3 screws and nuts to complete this project. Disclaimer: This frame brace may not be compatible with bulky belt...

Rebuild of the X-Y axis table I've long been eager to accomplish this: Installed bearings have significantly improved screw travel, making it smooth and effortless. A flywheel with a diameter of 65mm has been created. This now makes working much...

I Used The Y-Axis Drag-Cable Made By Stevenfayers, But It Didn't Attach Well To My Creality Cr-10 S5. That Part Of The Chain Had To Be Attached To The Bed Leveling Knobs, Which Meant Removing It Every Time I Needed To Level The Bed. So, I Loaded Two...

I didn't like Folgertech's Y-axis idler pulley design for their 2020 i3 printer. It was fiddly to assemble the bearings, washers and angle brackets, and the resulting assembly carried the belt a couple of mm higher than the motor pinion. So I...

This is a Y axis belt tensioner bracket and pulley that somebody on the Adimlab Facebook group made a while back. Hardware; Use the original hardware that came with the printer Y axis tensioner. For the adjustment screw if the original screw doesn't...