y axis 3d models
156277 3d models found related to y axis.thingiverse
The other end of the cable chain is meant to be secured to the pre-drilled holes used to support the Y axis motor. First, attach the bbCableChain_angle2.stl model to the bottom mount (bbBaseMount.stl) as shown in the image. Then, assemble the...
thingiverse
Initially, adjusting the y-axis belt tension involved flipping the entire printer over and manipulating the cable attachment points to tighten the belt. This process quickly became frustrating. I discovered another similar tensioner, part #807702,...
myminifactory
https://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-i3-mk3-f30/fine-tune-your-mk3-y-axis-t13851.html#p63653 Fine Print: You might need to use a 12 mm M3 now instead of the 10 mm M3, this mount is a bit thicker so you'll need a screw that's just a tad...
thingiverse
When installing this, you will want to move your y-axis limit switch forward a bit by unscrewing the screw that holds it to the extrusion and sliding it forward. ... If using the damper, it is preferred to add one to the front and rear of the motor and...
thingiverse
After installation, simply change the maximum position settings for the Y axis to 210mm. Thanks and feel free to suggest any modifications or edit the file as you see fit. ... Installation Remove the two outermost screws from the linear guide Insert...
thingiverse
To install, remove all four Y axis motor bolts. Next, attach the damper to the motor using two of them. Then, flip the motor over. After that, use two original X axis long M3 motor screws from the steel plate through the printed part to secure the...
thingiverse
The main structure of PRN3D follows a defined axis known as the Y-axis. A critical feature to enhance its overall performance is that these reinforced components are integrated well throughout its assembly. These special parts can extend about five...
thingiverse
Attach a Sainsmart mechanical end-stop to the makerslide on the Y-Axis. It functions when the carriage wheel's right rear bolt is activated. I have been using this since my printer's construction, and it has performed excellently. This mount is...
thingiverse
Hi everyone, The other day, I attempted to install a silencer on my extruder motor, as well as the X and Y-axis motors, in order to reduce the noise of my 3D printer during operation. Unfortunately, the motor on the bed axis was unable to receive the...
thingiverse
For ~20 Schmeckles, you could reinforce the rear, middle, and front of the y-axis, cross-brace the y-axis, stiffen the z-axis vertically & horizontally, tie all of those parts together square, and have plenty of places to fasten the printer down to a...
prusaprinters
It also doesn't require any fiddling with the end stop.NOTE: Does not work on the Ender-3 ProAlso, check out these other mods that dramatically reduce the sound of your Ender 3X-Axis Stepper DamperZ-Axis Stepper DamperLow Profile FeetEnjoy the...
prusaprinters
So this new version has some tabs attached that fit the front and back panels, keeping the bumper aligned perfectly and out of the way of the heatbed.Note that the bumpers only make sense in combination with my Y-axis bearing holders (see here) or...
thingiverse
... the mounting holes. Someone might want to remix the endcaps to allow for different screw mounting hole locations. If you drill out the right back side hole, be careful not to damage the Y-axis rear limit switch! ... How I Designed This Fusion 360
thingiverse
This is the Y-axis conversion of my Harbor Freight mini mill to CNC. Print everything with 100% infill and secure the print to the mill through the pedestal using two M6x25 bolts. A suitable Oldham coupler can be found at...
thingiverse
If you're trying to add dampers to an Ender 3, your printer's carriage might crash into the stepper motor on the Y axis or you could end up with press-fit stepper gears. Either way, the solution lies in printing the adapter found here:...
cults3d
... farther towards the outer edge of the printer. Additionally, I'm utilizing https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2274088 for the bearings, which has enabled me to regain all of my y travel without having to extend the length of the Y axis extrusions.
thingiverse
In the PRN3D wide y-axis part project, an NTN-624ZZ bearing is required, along with a GT2 belt measuring 340mm in length. For the Y-block, you'll need 4 M4x25mm bolts with nuts and washers (low head), as well as 4 M3x8mm bolts with washers. For the...
prusaprinters
(only the extruder could accommodate a damper) I was pretty bummed until I ran across matthijsp's Y-axis stepper motor damper spacer. What a great idea, but it required some additional hardware that I did have laying around, so I created this little...
cults3d
I've tried some different direct printing tools on my Ender 3 v2 and all of them make me loose between 0.5-1cm on the Y axis. Yesterday i was talking about this to a frend who told me a way to enlarge that distance on the Y axis in a easy way. He...
thingiverse
I've tried some different direct printing tools on my Ender 3 v2 and all of them make me loose between 0.5-1cm on the Y axis. Yesterday i was talking about this to a frend who told me a way to enlarge that distance on the Y axis in a easy way. He...
thingiverse
Upgrade your Y axis to a 300 mm (12") GT2 belt drive for stability and eliminate Y-Sag with this mod. The original length of 150 mm reaches the edge of a 6" heat bed, but can be extended further if needed. To ensure stability, ensure the lower rod is...
thingiverse
Other printable parts for my printers include: GT2 belt clamp (Prusa Y-axis), Arduino Mega and RAMPS v1.4 case, Prusa i3 steel 10mm upgrade, Prusa i3 Steel Y-axis motor mount, Prusa i3 Steel X-carriage, E3D Chimera / Cyclops mount, dual E3D...
thingiverse
The orange part was printed using a DC motor on the x-axis but a stepper on the y-axis. ... Here's the type of motor I used:...
thingiverse
Introducing a DIY project for Linear bearings LMB6UU (3/8") ToM Y Axis Carriage. This work-in-progress aims to enhance your 3D printer experience, but is open for critics and modifications. The current design requires an independent X carriage due to...
thingiverse
I needed to reverse the Y-Axis drag-chain's direction so I could wall-mount the X-Carve electronics, which would have meant extending all wiring and running it from the wrong end of the machine. Instead, all electronics now run to the back of the...
thingiverse
This is a rework of a Y-axis endstop, which looks like the one I had was based off this endstop (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:82631). To get a spacing of 30 mm for my printer, I redrew the part in Fusion 360. The slot remains as a through hole to...
cults3d
This is a Y Axis End Stop for the "Original" Prusa i3 that comes from Prusa Research. The kit has you zip tie the switch to the the 8mm round bar and this replaces the zip tie with something more robust. Note that this version of the i3 has a 8mm...
thingiverse
I reworked this Prusa i3 Y Axis Motor holder in SCAD because I had to tweak it for my printer's rail size and distance. All major parameters are adjustable directly within the SCAD file or through Thingiverse's customizer tool. If you're using a...
thingiverse
The reason behind creating this nozzle was to address a y-axis spacer issue after switching to direct drive and using the mount found at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2721575, in conjunction with the -2mm Z spacer from...
cults3d
This is the Y axis lead screw for the Ender3 and clones, maybe. #See the X axis here #See the 3DLS that started the lead screw mess here This requires an aftermarket board to use with the BTT S42B closed loop controller! #BOM BTT S42B Closed...