bit buddy 3d models
138284 3d models found related to bit buddy.thingiverse
Wheel four in particular requires a bit of post-print attention since its integrated shaft is so tall and thin. Ream out shaft holes as required. Wheel two should spin freely around its 2mm shaft, as should wheel one, the outer drum, and the hour...
prusaprinters
This is a bit of a hack to make the first cage bridging layer over the rollers consist of just concentric circles, which makes the bridging clean, without having to set the number of shells very high. It slices the bridging part of the cage into...
prusaprinters
Measures are for the 50x70 FISKBO frame.Note: If you choose a plug design with a corner, make sure to mirror half of them in the slicerAdditional Materials3x12mm screws (+ screwdriver)magnets (round, 8mm diameter, 3mm thick, 16 per frame)2cm forstner...
prusaprinters
The holes for the dowels are NOT through-holes, so you need a separate shelf bracket for each side!The 3MF file has these changes already in place, and also has the inner-section of the shelf set to zero top/bottom layers, and Honeycomb infill...
prusaprinters
I held these in place with a tiny bit of glue so they didn't wander when putting the clear cover.Moved the trim to the outside of the clear Polycarbonate face. Having it inside meant large potential for air bubbles to be trapped. ...
prusaprinters
(like me!)Use the next bit of this summary as a guide to hotends; no fully necessary info is in here.As already noted, this design is part of my journey to create a string-less environment. I've cycled through many designs and variations, and have...
thingiverse
While you can build it from scratch, we offer a barebones kit to help you complete the project: http://spacepioneering.com/product/barebones-space-pioneer-proto-kit/ Otherwise, the project centers around a custom PCB we developed that can be found...
thingiverse
You can donate a bit of your device resources while downloading/printing my models, generating some JSECoins for me in return. ...It won't use much of your device's resources and no sign-up is required: https://techtek.github.io/Steemeum/jse.html Or,...
thingiverse
I've also put the old f3d files back, since they behave a bit differently when out of range parameters are put in, see the comments for more detail.) (edit 3/24/2019, I've added an f3d file for customizing the o-ring.) This rugged box features hinges...
thingiverse
Only been modeling for a handful of weeks now, so I'm sure they're not all perfect, but it fits my Tec-9 quite well and adds a good bit of comfort to two-hand shooting with it. Not responsible for how you use this. Please no commercial uses or...
thingiverse
They will hold sleeved cards, but it will be a bit tight. In the box these will fit in around the Holder_SoilGrowth. Holder_EcoCards [print 1]: Holds the Ecology cards. Supports sleeves. In the box this will sit on one edge with the other...
thingiverse
* A bit of wobble from the plastic carrier panel. Could use support from below, but will then be highly model- or even generation-specific. ## F.A.Q. * Can I use PLA? * No, PLA starts softening around 65 °C and is not suitable for any...
thingiverse
- A bit of wobble from the plastic carrier panel. Could use support from below, but will then be highly model- or even generation-specific. ## F.A.Q. - Can I use PLA? * No, PLA starts softening around 65 °C and is not suitable for any...
thingiverse
So I designed this modular 3D printer housing with several additional options, including:\r\n\r\n- Non-invasive integration of the Prusa I3 Mk3 (and potentially the Mk2 as well?)\r\n- Base-mounted PTFE tube guidance for MMU2 or similar multifilament...
thingiverse
- The nuts used were all without a nylock which would help a bit. - C_pot_gear had no clearance from base, this resulted in some friction. Changed to add 1mm clearance. - Tension arm bearing height raised by 1mm to make it inline with...
thingiverse
So, I've redesigned the slots for the o-rings to be a bit deeper and increased the size of the base so it's easier to grasp with my big hands. I'm reprinting it soon. This latest version is Rev 4. Rev 3 worked and will remain as a backup plug. But...
cults3d
I added a little bit of tolerance, but it should be fairly snug. Slide the two instances of "leg-side" into their slots on either side. Note the portion of "leg-side" that curves, and use that to inform the direction in which you place it. The small...
thingiverse
After printing take both halves and sand them to remove any stringy bits around the openings. 3. After sanding, take the “outer” part of the helicoid and screw it onto an m39 mount to clear any extra material in the m39 thread. Remove the “outer”...
thingiverse
However this is a delicate bit of SMD work and should not be attempted unless you're competent at soldering. Then there are two additional printable parts included -- a fan mount post (which replaces one of the carriage belt clips) and a nozzle duct....
prusaprinters
For this purpose, I wanted an enclosure that was a bit more decorative than the usual more practical enclosures. For this purpose, I designed this “tower” enclosure.The enclosure is designed to accept a cooling fan. This may or may not be necessary...
prusaprinters
At the moment the 1x9x30 mm compression spring is working well with repeated use but is just still a bit strong and difficult to remove the tool but does not break the clips.Update 08/10/2018: added 3 mm clip for use with a 1x9x35 mm compression...
thingiverse
* Interlocks between segments: went from 4 to 3, gave them a bit more wiggle room (fit was too tight), also some chamfers for easier assembly. * 15° angle between segments and center piece, allowing you to assemble the outer segments first and then...
myminifactory
3 - Since the model is 'suspended' in a running position and is a bit top heavy when gluing, gluing order is a major consideration when building this model. The following is how I assembled the model: - Assemble the head parts and body parts (without...
prusaprinters
Remix fromhttps://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5369512Christian Dyer his design only works on new builds.The Retro Fit design works on printers that are already fully build and do not require tear down of the frame profiles.Installation description.1]...
prusaprinters
My screen went a bit funny when the heater wires were in the rounded corner, the thermistor reading would change to “LLL”. Moving the high current wires to the other side fixed this.</p><p>take 2 of the riser ring parts at a time & check they fit...
thingiverse
4 - My apologies, but the teeth are a bit unwieldly to glue. After putting the mouth into the face and gluing the tongue in, do the teeth before gluing the face to the body. Be careful to insert the teeth in the correct order and rotation. 5 -...
thingiverse
At the Y limit switch, I recommend angling the shift tongue a bit. If you only want to increase the installation space, you can use "XVersatzT100" to move the limit switch up without having to drill a hole. Sign HFT - High Flow Temperature, HFK -...
thingiverse
There are a few similar designs to this, but I took a little bit of the best aspects of each and combined them for an ideal solution for me. I restarted from scratch and designed this model from those other inspirations. This version allows a...
cults3d
The only fiddly bit in assembling it is the x rail. It's tricky as the hole spacing on the rails is not exactly the same for every manufacturer. So I have not included holes to mount the x rail, this is why you need high infill carriages. The x...
thingiverse
I suggest securing it by melting the tab behind it or with a bit of hot glue. > - The Pro Micro has a quite weak USB connector. I would suggest you reinforce it with a blob of epoxy glue, my first Pro Micro broke. ![Assembly and...