edc bit driver 3d models

...  Original source is attached, however I'm still learning so some of the elements are a bit dodgy.  It's in lots of colours in cheap no-name PLA because that's what I have lying around.  If there is enough interest I'll make improvements - maybe.

The Speeddrive BMG mount is designed for a BMG or clone extruder and 4023 "pancake" motor, but can also be used with a 4040 motor, if you are willing to lose the bit of left side build space inherent with that configuration. - Side mounts place...

I found the slop in the door to be extreme, I drilled out the hole with a #22 drill bit (~4.05mm), slipped in a short length of 3mm ID/4MM OD PTFE as a bushing, and it controls the door much tighter. This may help to limit noise with small...

Hinge pin holes must be drilled out with 1/8" drill bit to remove flat spot on the roof and screws must be forced in (this is not an issue with the model but a physical limitation with my printer). V1.2: I noticed that the spacing for the A-arms did...

Running in a straight line is still a bit challenging, but each time I've tested the airboat, it's been quite windy. I'd rather not redesign the rudder, but it may be necessary for better control. Especially when navigating tight areas at slow...

I think sanding the little circuit board a bit would clearance it enough, but I just used the other connectors and can't say if this one would work or not. https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10031 Micro USB connectors are great but the molded-over...

I've left a few "marker" polys for these in the .blend file, for possible future use. ◦ Moved the RGBI sub board down to the bottom of the case. ◦ Made the whole thing slightly wider, a bit longer to accommodate the RGBI board, and less tall/thick. ◦...

This bit's pretty straightforward. The cutaway view (second pic) shows the internal slide. Threaded through the side holes in the slide slide are 2 road bike cable inners. These have to be road bike cables to keep the lead stopper small enough to...

By increasing the barrel length, it instantly looks a bit more balanced. Especially with a stock added on.</p> <p>Next is accessories. The standard FDL-2 to has a single 3.5" rail, greatly limiting what accessories can be used with it. Sure the...

...**Building the model** Colors(your colors may vary, as this character has changed quite a bit over the years) Black: (Paramount3D PLA - Black)eye_black_righteye_black_lefteyebrow_righteyebrow_leftnose.. Dark Red: (Paramount3D PLA - Iron Red)tongue..

With the original 1701 monitor's curved corner bezels, this wasn't such an issue as in the 8-bit home computing days, text in the overscan areas of the screen were always avoided (i.e. the C64's light blue border). But for those using this with...

It's all a nice friction fit (on my printer at least!), but you might want a bit of cynoacrylate glue if your printer is better dialled in than mine. My light sets were 20 light sets. So this worked out nicely into 3 lights per wing, with the...

ABS works well too but it may warp a bit, making insertion and release less smooth. I haven't tried PLA because I'm not sure it will be strong enough for this application (but if you try please share your results!).\n\nThe buckles shown in the photos...

In my case I printed X and Y dimensions at 100.4% for all 3 parts, using Prusa PETG.AssemblyPress-fit 4 M3 nuts, one in each corner of the GRILL, it's a bit tricky because they got from inside, use a bolt to press them well into the fitting.Press-fit...

A few other bits and tweaks. Code-compare someone else's if you want to see it all. To flash: in VSCode, if you're using 2209's, no need to change stepper type. If you aren't, change that in platformio.ini Build/upload, restart printer. M502 a...

The mounting holes on the sides of the PSU have a fair bit of clearance inside, so there is less concern here, but be careful all the same. You will also need to pay attention to the position of the two side mounts, which must be used in place of the...

I even rebuild my own front switch completely to make it sturdier and with much better grip.Advantages of my designno use of octoprintno smart-plug requireddisconnects the printer completely from power (phase and neutral are disconnected; better than...

If you want to give the card dispensers a bit more stability during transport, print the card dispenser hlder, place them on top and tie them to the bottom ones with rubber bands (s. picture). The entire hex tower then goes into the storage box,...

Grommets with these dimensions will be the closest fitting grommets and come in ~.15mm looser than the 3D printed grommets ( I tightened the tolerances a bit to get a better seal with my harder flex filament, unless you achieve 100% dimensional...

Come join our Patreon!\ For several years now, we've been collecting an extensive assortment of busts, cosplay, props, and various models designed specifically for the Patreon page.\ If you'd like to check out the models that some of our 400+ members...

But this is just a cleaner better aligned design. Moved camera hinges on case bottom to be a little bit higher for a better view. Still trying to figure out a way to adjust the camera tilt.</li> </ul> <p><strong>EDIT 2: Reworked the model...

By necessity because it is difficult to get an accurate measurement from the camera's sensor plane to the tip of the lens (in the order of the tenths of a millimeter or less); and by design because the goal is not to use the full 1:1 magnification of...

Cut the square out with a utility knife or other sharp implement Take a center-punch, or screwdriver if you don't have one, put it through the hole and touching the middle of the bottom card stock and laminate layer of the enclosure lid. HAMMER FIST...

I will eventually remix it a bit and it will serve as a guide for filament fed from below and behind the printer out of a dry box. Some build notes: For some reason it took four or five attempts to successfully reprint the modified part cooling fan...

People ask me why the detail is so prominent (not just the Bimbo bits) but the muscle tone, anatomy, clothing etc. on my models . . well as they are primarily made/designed for my own collection I always sand down with fine emery then have models...

Once you have an acceptable center hole, center the top print on the bucket again and drill through one of the flange holes using a 5mm or equivalent bit. Use tape to hold the part in place while drilling, if needed. Bolt the part through the first...

it's possible I could have tweaked the model further so it would work better, but I knew PrusaSlicer would handle the bridging much better and adding a simple color swap g-code would be super simple. Final note, I used different RGB LED strips this...

I'm still finding bits in my shed. Printing: - Outer case. PETG, 0.2mm layers, perimeters 3 (1.2mm), 4 solid layers top and bottom. Support is only needed in three areas, highlighted in green in the image. The blue layer in the next image...

Parts used: - sk6812 LED strip - I used 1,5 meter of 60leds/meter strip (90 leds in total) from BTF-lighting - MEAN WELL RS-25-5 power suply - 5V, 25W, the lamp is made to fit specificaly this unit, cheaper, chinese power supplys are usually little...

This can be a bit stiff the first time as the dial assembly will probably be slightly too tightly pushed together. You can glue the dial assembly together if you want a more permanent connection (and even carefully glue the "Plug" piece to the "Top"...