springtrap model

Originally designed for the Ender 3-V2 model, reusing the 4011mm Original axial Fan as Nozzle cooling. The original fan is loud, you will probably wish to change it with a quieter one and higher performance 4020 axial fan! Many options are available....

The Aim of this project was to build a converter kit for my V2 model into a Core YX printer and by reusing as many original parts of Ender 3 v2 as possible. The second goal of this build was to keep the possibility of converting back the coreYX to...

V1 arm is fine too, but there's a risk of collision with some models of the head in very rare cases of high and wide prints. Prepare all parts. Power off the printer. Unplug the power cable! Disconnect the low voltage connector (2 wires). Unscrew...

You can use a polarity detector app on your smartphone to figure out which side is North (+) and which is South (-).If you want to risk glue breaking loose and would rather not print the magnets into the piece, then you can just grab the models and...

InfoThe provided model is a very simple mold to cast some silicone into it. This will result into a mold itself to cast the 25% sized 3D-Benchy into resin.</p><p>Volumes to calculate the necessary amount of silicone and resin:</p><ul><li>Silicone:...

... but found it lacking in designing the parts I wanted. Onshape was easy to get started with and proved to be up to the task. You can find my Onshape model here: Tiny Tensioner for Creality_Ender_3,_3_Pro_or_v2. ... Category: 3D Printer Accessories

Issues that I have with the design: In hand, the phone with my case (Model brand Apple silicone clone) on it fits snug. I can shake it vigorously upside-down and the phone doesn't fall out. However, After strapping it to the stem, the mount develops...

If you don't have a pipe clamp, see the 3D printable model provided - it uses an M4-18mm bolt/nut/washer. All parts are checked for naked edges or errors, so they're all going to be printable! If the design is good or if the parts fit... that's...

current problems: - comments and filenames are mostly in German language - some of the mounting holes in the pcb are not at the exact right place - the pcb was designed with easyEDA and not with an open source program like KiCAD, which is compatible...

It has a hand rest and i'm rendering the models with left, right and both side hand rests. There are also two versions, one with space for a round and one with space for a square fit trim button. The PTT button on the left is the same in both...

Make some extras in case you break some while inserting into the coupler.&nbsp;Sizing and tolerance:Model dimensions were adjusted to print at desired size. Your printer may give slightly different results and one part or another may need slight...

Taller models have a tendency to cool in the middle and pull the bottom up at the corners. If your workspace/office is 75 degrees and you printer is not in an exclosure you should probably use some kind of adhesive. I found Glass+Glue worked for me...

It Lets You See Your Model Being Built and Doesn't Obscure View. Why Make Yet Another Cooler? Cooling Plastic Just After Its Been Extruded Is Essential on FDM Printers and There Is a Lot of Choice for Cooling on the Makerbot Clones. I Tried All of...

Print Settings: Printer: Original Prusa i3 MK2 kit Rafts: No Supports: Yes Additional information: About the model: Previously, due to the fact that the arc was oval, each lamp segment was unique. The new one is designed to be universal. Yes, this...

We'll be using a simple character model for this exercise, so go ahead and import it into your scene. You can find the model in the "Models" folder of your project. Once you've imported the model, select it and go to Edit > Object > Group. Name the...

http://www.thingiverse.com/apps/customizer/run?thing_id=368375 Instructions Using the following options: use_mouse_ears = 0 pattern_line_thickness = 34 custom_bottom_port_corner_radius = 5 custom_back_camera_corner_resolution = 8...

I would recommend all the bridges honestly.&nbsp;Update Jan 31 2021made the holes for the hex nuts smaller to promote better hold under torqueadded relief cut on the M6 hole, as threading may result in splitting the model on version D1resized the D1...

About this model: Things are a bit wonky aligning the pieces. As mentioned this wasn't done in CAD software... But they will line up. Once you get things put together you may wish to super glue some of the pieces to provide stabiltiy and less...

lower % = better airflowBrim: No brim defaultMaterial: PLA for R1, PETG suggested for R7AOOSTAR R1 runs much cooler is is probably okay with PLA.AOOSTAR R7 runs warm so only advise printing in PETG for this model. Color: AnyPrint Orientation: Print...

The bowl model is a solid piece, and CAN be printed in vase mode / spiralize outer contour. This, however, isn’t the strongest. What I do is print them with 0% infill, 2-3 outer walls, 4 bottom layers, and 0 top layers. Basically makes it a double...

For some reason my CAD software refuses to export this in the correct orientation, you will need to rotate the model upside down in PrusaSlicer and print it flat on the bed. If you want optional Slice Nozzle Wrench holder: SliceNW...

I added a single nozzle part cooling fan for the v6 hotend model to work around this for those using the stock roller carriage.* **Updates** * V5 - Single Nozzle part cooling fan added for stock x carriages V4 - Updated BLTouch mounts and redesigned...

The rail is just for easy mounting and maintenance. The base is designed to work with the Ender 5 Plus which I have, and should theoretically fit the Ender 5 and maybe other Creality printers too. I uploaded the STEP files too and encourage you to...

I know, it's specifically for the Ender 3 & I am using a Mega Zero, so no surprise that it does not work but I have no idea why before now I didn't see the problem when using these Ender 3 designed mounts with my Mega Zero, even if I'd mirrored the...

It looks like you've got a table with some planetary models and their corresponding scales. Here's the cleaned-up HTML for it: ```html <table> <tr> <td><a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3720464">Earth</a></td> <td...

http://www.thingiverse.com/apps/customizer/run?thing_id=368375 Instructions Using the following options: custom_phone_thickness = 10 custom_back_camera_x_position = 0 stencil_pattern_element_overlap = 0 custom_top_outer_edge_chamfer_radius = .6...

First, I modeled the front of the display to fit the RepRap Discount Full Graphics Smart Controller. Then, I also decided it needed a back to protect the circuit board. Easy peasy! Next, I tackled the problem of mounting a TFT35 touch screen...

Features2 emplacements for 3.5" Hard disks, connected via USB3 to the Raspberry Pi140x25mm fan emplacement at the front for efficient cooling of the Raspberry Pi and hard drivesInternal Power-supply 5V/12VMain power switch and fuse accessible at the...

I started with the photos of the metal models (I've uploaded those photos to thing:1618843) and went from there. All the design work was done in Moi (Moment of Inspiration). Once I had an escapement design, I ran it as a simulation (unsuccessfully)...

... for all of this - I am just starting to learn with Onshape thanks to TeachingTech's new series but Tinkercad is still a lot quicker for me with these simple shape kind of designs. I am looking forward to being able to create more detailed models :)