layer shift 3d models

Printing Information: Printing was done on an Elegoo Saturn 2 8K with a layer height of 0.05 mm. I prefer to print the lithophanes in white. Supports were always placed only at the bottom and inside of the cylinder when printing the lithophanes so...

The more layers and infill the heavier but you want this to be strong and firm. Use supports but I remove them from the small screw holes because they become a pain to clean out after printing. And I print with the back (the part that gets attached...

Without support, the drooping plastic messed up the wire channel and didn’t let the battery sit flat, without cleanup work.Note: This orientation results in visible layer steps when the dome is printed at .2mm. It’s good enough, makes for a quicker...

                                                                      ...

Reducing layer height to .1mm could help, but would also add significantly to print times. 2021-05-12: Added special corner connectors and panel supports for back wall of .125 (1/8") wood paneling, and updated parts lists accordingly if you want to...

It has been argued that for the N2+ model with a print that could fill the entire 2 foot tall bed, these springs would compress and the object would then miss layers and ruin the print. If I were worried about printing that tall with that high a...

The main Body just barely fits on my Prusa MK3s but with a .6 nozzle and .4 layer height printing the main body and turntable only took about 8 and a half hours. No supports, no raft and using Stock .6 Nozzle settings on Prusa Slicer. The only...

Layered them and used the belt holder above. I also had to cut a notch in the frame so the lower belt would not rub on the central frame of the printer as the pulley is lower than the frame. **Z TOP PLATES** I redesigned the top plates, replacing...

Your 1st layer will be the most uniform it's ever been regardless of whether you have auto-leveling or not. It is also a great diagnosis tool for bed leveling problems. It allows you to readily see precisely how your bed leveling efforts are...

 (I cutted some arround to lenght) HERE ! The Build followed as the MK3s BEAR upgrade 2.1  nothing fancy https://guides.bear-lab.com/c/Frameparts printed in 0.2 Layer Height 30 to 40% infil 3 Walls No...

I used a 50% fill setting, 4-inner/outer-shells, and 0.24mm layer thickness for all parts. I created nut-lock tubes to hold the hex nut in each knob and an add-on or alternative to gluing in the hex nut. I made them and show them in the design,...

I recommend using 5 top, bottom and perimeter layers with an infill of 25% or higher. The whole carriage prints in one piece, supports are not needed. The fan duct for parts cooling, the belt peg and the dragon mount all print without supports....

Reason is the Flip-Switch leaf spring being to soft ||| fixed in 1st Update)(Loose Cylinder-Rotator: Apply multiple layers of tape to make less room for movement. You can use glue, too, but if something breaks you will have to print the entire...

I recommend using Polycarbonate (PC), a PC blend such as PC-FR (flame retardant PC), PC-CF (PC with Carbon Fibre) or PA-CF (Nylon with Carbon Fibre).This PA-CF should be a great option:Trianglelab Filament PA-CF15To summarize, print the parts in PC...

I recommend using 4 or 5 top, bottom and perimeter layers with an infill of 25% or higher. The whole carriage prints in one piece with supports only needed in a few spots: Above the arches over the rods Inside the fan duct Inside the hole for...

Once all the tests pass, perform a first layer calibration.Here are the steps to perform when you want to swap a mobile plate.Unload the filament.Power down the printer and remove the mobile plate.Attach the new mobile plate, and power on the...

I only indicate a height offset between the plate and the nozzle which will be equal to the distance travelled by the effector to activate the microswitch + the distance I offset the nozzle to print the first layer.``#define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET {...

Then I included a five perimeter, three-layer high skirt to keep it attached. Left to right: PETG White, PLA Natural, Ninjaflex Black. Untuned profiles.</strong></p> <p><strong>Left to right: PETG White, PLA Natural, Ninjaflex Black. Untuned...

&nbsp;For the examples in the photos I've used the awesome Tecbears Shiny Silk Copper PLA (at the time of writing this now appears to be available only as part of a 3-pack, but hopefully it'll be available singly again), with 235° first layer, 220°...

I recommend using Polycarbonate (PC), a PC blend such as PC-FR (flame retardant PC), PC-CF (PC with Carbon Fibre) or PA-CF (Nylon with Carbon Fibre).This PA-CF should be a great option:Trianglelab Filament PA-CF15To summarize, print the parts in PC...

Unless noted otherwise, no supports are required and 2-3 wall lines at 0.2 mm layer height should be fine.&nbsp;Disclaimer: I'm writing these instructions from memory and they will be sketchy at best. Make sure that before cutting or glueing...

**Filament used:** [Hatchbox Matte PLA, Olive Green](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09G8DBZFY?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details) (_NOT an affiliate link!_) For the second (and final for now) build, I sliced in Cura using the following settings: -...

##### 3.1 Print Settings For a light duty/workable frames: * Material: eSun PLA+ * Print Temp: 235 C * Bed Temp: 60 C * Bed Prep: Wipe clean, apply a thick layer of Elmer’s glue stick. Kapton tape is recommended since this frame will really stick to...

I recommend using 5 top, bottom and perimeter layers with an infill of 25% or higher. The whole carriage prints in one piece, supports are not needed. The fan duct for parts cooling, the belt peg and the dragon mount all print without supports....

I recommend using 4 or 5 top, bottom and perimeter layers with an infill of 25% or higher. The whole carriage prints in one piece with supports only needed in a few spots: Above the arches over the rods Inside the fan duct Inside the hole for...

Also you can embed them in your print by increasing magnet_closing_layer to 0.2mm, as requested by Mavi222, check out his make for more info."HiddenText" and "HiddenTextSize" will generate text on the underside of the base of the nameplate. Use it...

I recommend using 5 top, bottom and perimeter layers with an infill of 25% or higher. The whole carriage prints in one piece, supports are not needed. The fan duct for parts cooling, the belt peg and the dragon mount all print without supports....

Ideally, the part should be printed so the layer lines are parallel to the load, but that requires a lot of support and generally results in a part that isn't very round (e.g., lacks concentricity). The hose isn't all that heavy, but a sudden side...

I recommend using 5 top, bottom and perimeter layers with an infill of 25% or higher.The whole carriage prints in one piece, supports are not needed.The fan duct for parts cooling, the belt peg and the dragon mount all print without supports. The...

I recommend using 5 top, bottom and perimeter layers with an infill of 25% or higher.The whole carriage prints in one piece, supports are not needed.The fan duct for parts cooling, the belt peg and the dragon mount all print without supports. The...