prusaslicer anet a8 3d models

probaly best just to print rotorThick_200micronGap_11g_PLA_49m.gcode, or scale your rotor to have a small gap (this needed about X: 99.90%, Y: 100.10% for me).You can use Prusaslicer to make your own range of scales, C.f. the attached file example of...

Lastly grab some wire and solder the on/off switch to 12V pad on led strip. Now all your wiring is done!</li><li>Put led strip into the front piece of the casing and also put the battery to the back of the light and connect it to the battery...

As such, you'll need a 360x360 bed for printing.I used Polymaker PETG for all partsI used Hatchbox white PLA for the support interface layer using the .20 soluble interface profile (it provided the best adhesion/release combined with Polymaker...

(PrusaSlicer allows cutting out a section of a model.) My Pico and the filament I used make a very tight fit so I’ve not glued the Pico in. Snap or glue the Pico in, push the wires into the box carefully, and get the lid down to its proper...

I printed them with the PrusaSlicer defaults for the "0.20mm QUALITY" with one change: Infill: 35% The Clock Face The Clock Face is only 1mm thick with some tighter details, so I recommend printing it with the PrusaSlicer "0.10mm DETAIL" settings....

... this was sliced with PrusaSlicer using an AnkerMake M5 profile @ 15% infill, and printed on an AnkerMake M5 using default settings, taking about an hour to print. This is my first original design, and I'm really happy with how it came out!

With PrusaSlicer, I paint on supports. Without the supports in this spot, the filament tends to pull away from the previous layer. However, if you don't use supports and the filament does pull away, the case is still good. The case is not lost, just...

I recommend LED, for example. Check out my project that led me to this https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/40606-liquid-cuprum-print-in-place-lampshade And also another funny fluffy lamp - Polar Sheep...

None of the models need support.The plug and eye have a left and right version in the model, just mirror them in Prusaslicer.&nbsp;Have fun with it!&nbsp;*** DISCLAIMER ***&nbsp;Still Work in progress! I am in the progress making it myself and...

I used them to raise the box a bit to allow for cable entry under the box, but you could also use them to hold rubber feet so the box doesn't slide around on your table.I've included all of the files in the FreeCAD original, AMF format, 3MF from...

&nbsp;The files are set up for Prusaslicer and should have the configuration available. &nbsp;<br><br>I'd suggest printing the timing gear with the same filament and configuration as the globe to ensure smooth operation. &nbsp;</p><p>The other parts...

Once you've spotted the model that meets your criteria, just search for its filename on the project page to easily download the right file.How to Print the PotIn the files section, you'll find PrusaSlicer example projects, offering basic settings as...

I've used this service https://blog.prusaprinters.org/color-print/ to insert a filament change command at layer height 0.6mm into a gcode file rendered by Slic3r / PrusaSlicer. Might work with other slicers, too. </li> </ul> <ul> <li>The...

One of the pics shows it in army green.Printing orientation:Print with the back on the plate (with the flat front of the stand facing up to the sky)Prusaslicer settings:3 perimeters4 solid layers top and bottomensure vertical shell thickness onuse...

I tried to make the description and the solution in such a way that it could be done easily, without &nbsp;special program, and knowledge.Color printing is easy with Z layer height change.The model is similar in width and rounding to the spotify code...

... I added a “cap” and “bottom” on top of the embedded spring, so you cannot see the spring on the surface of the slot machine. ***Troubleshooting*** In case the spring is not sliced well please try slicing with PrusaSlicer version 2.5.0 or later.

The dividers are made using the tamplate provided by fabula_rasa on Board Game Geek. Print instructions: I printed this at 0.2 layer height on "speed" quality in PrusaSlicer since I figured this would be a common setting for many people. It prints...

Remixed this awesome design of an dragon egg from @DoritoMojito on myminifactory (got his permission):https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-dragon-egg-93134It now fits a threaded insert in the bottom so it can be lighted from the inside.The...

If you are using PrusaSlicer, you can make your brim even stronger by setting Elephant Foot Compensation to 0 under Print Settings and then Advanced. The nut should be printed so the widest part of the grips are towards the print bed. The flat bottom...

NOTE: prusaslicer can't handle obj's very well. open them in 3d builder or mesh mixer and save them as stl. or use the includes stl (not tested) This model is under "Attribution + Noncommercial + ShareAlike" You can't sell this model on...

The infill was set to 20% and the overall print quality was set to 0.20 mm (Quality) setting in PrusaSlicer. The overall print time was about 15 hours 20 minutes for the base component, and about 9 hours and 45 minutes for the extension post and top...

In PrusaSlicer this can be accomplished by setting the point at which you want to perform a filament change. ...I would recommend picking two colors that provide good contrast.</p> <p>For a short tutorial on color changing without a multi-material...

(STL Included for completeness) Print Settings Printer: i3 Clone Rafts: No&lt;/div&gt;Supports: Yes Resolution: 0.3mm (Adapter and base 0.2mm)&lt;/div&gt;Infill: 20% Filament: Wanhao PLA (Adapter and base printed in PETG, but PLA wil work) Red ...

The 3mf files are the project files from PrusaSlicer v2.1.1 and include my print settings. The settings variations from the profiles are applied to the objects, so edit those if you want to change perimeter count, infill type/density, and...

I printed my whole unit at 0.25 layers and 10% infill on PrusaSlicer 2.0. The only clean up needed is to remove the 80mm fan plug inside the case for airflow. All the screw holes are meant to be self-threaded by the screws, so I recommend printing...

In PrusaSlicer, I enabled support material, then added a support blocker cube of 45mm sides covering everything except the tips of the curved part to prevent support being used inside the part (see the screenshots above). The only reason to use...

So I don't want anybody to get frustrated when they want to modify the design. Print instructionsPrint Settings Resolution: 0,2 mm height and 0,4 mm nozzle Infill: 30 % Filament: 3DPSP PETG transparent green This design also uses selective infill...

I printed at PrusaSlicer default settings for 0.2mm (Quality). Printing both pieces at the same time (not print in place) is a 3h 15m print. Disassembly of the garden light is about 5 minutes.</p> <ol> <li><p>The garden/lawn lights are inexpensive...

Just open your variant of choice with PrusaSlicer, confirm your printer and print material, then slice and print! I've prepared all the print settings for you.</p><p>If you would like to prepare your own print files, I have also included .stl's for...

If you add a part to the lid in PrusaSlicer, then GrillPart should be placed automatically in the right place. In other slicers, you'll need to move that modifier to the right place manually. Then, you can rotate the whole thing to the right...