chaos terminator lightning claws bits 3d models

This is the biggest component to print, maxed out my print bed at about 124mm across - 1x di_dino_tray_large: For holding most of the herbivore dinosaur meeples - Three di_dino_tray_small: One for water dinos (about half of them), one for small...

While the base stucture is exactly like the original Johann Rostock, with 8mm smooth rods placed in pairs 60mm apart, and using 250mm diagonal rods, the frame is a bit shorter. I took the wood panel laser cut design from:...

As my SPA pool uses over 2.3KW to heat (warm a bit - that they should write in the manual) I had built my own solar heater from old window, 100m of 16mm garden watering PE pipe conveniently in black and sheet of Dibond from old sign. Window is 2m by...

place the spool holder in the bag and push the egress ptfe thru the bag's bowden connector, thru the center connector, and a bit over the top of where the spool will go Use --- 1. connect the bag to the printer 1. spool going in the bag... 1. feed...

Wait awhile Turn on Volume 1 Turn on a Rendering setting Threshold the resulting 3D rendering until you get only the bits of the reconstruction that you want I've posted this here in hopes that someone somewhere can gain enjoyment or better yet...

This method is a bit finicky, as you need to carefully align the sticker to avoid covering the barcode on the underside of the pod. 2. The second method, which I call the "disk option," involves placing a circular paper filter on top of the filled...

... via the four slots in the cake base's bottom and check your wiring. Enjoy! I include the OpenSCAD source file. It is still a bit of a mess, sorry. Caution: This is not a toy for small children. ...They may bite off a flame and swallow it.

This mounts a Raspberry Pi 3B on the right side under the bed, which makes cable management a bit cleaner. Print the bottom part and one of the tops depending on whether you need a slot for the camera's ribbon cable or not. Also needed: 1x M4 T-nut...

 Then measure with calipers since actual pipe you buy may differ a bit!  This is designed for ¾" pipe (Schedule 40 or 80) and 1.5" pipe (Schedule 40 only).  The platform grips the inner edge of the 1.5" pipe and the outer edge of the ¾" pipe. The...

I also use TGY9081MG, with 4.8mm pinions, which is 12.2 thick and a bit longer, but the pinion to flange dimensions are the same so they can be interchanged with the ES08's. The pinions designs are not exact fits, just sizes I hacked to work with...

2) Drill the door's hinge pin hole to the required size (go slowly, letting the bit cool down every so often to avoid melting the plastic) and insert the hinge pin. Holding the door by the pin so it can tilt freely, add pennies (or other mass)...

This is the code I use in Cura: (yes this is the complete End-Code) ``` G91 ;Relative positioning G1 E-2 F2700 ;Retract a bit G1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400 ;Retract and raise Z G1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out G1 Z10 ;Raise Z more G90 ;Absolute positioning M106 S0...

Although, a tiny piece of double sided tape on bottom center of mount or a little bit of Loctite Fun Tak or Poster Putty can help if its not super secure side to side. Lastly, if you are just starting out and unsure how to size the legs, send me a...

... but more fun! If you print the bottom the same colour as the top cover, it will be a bit harder to find how to open the box. Also, the result would be more beautiful if you change the filament during printing at certains layer heights. ...Have fun!

To then help keep fan exhaust off the print surface, I angle the fan upwards a bit using a wedge. The 10-degree wedge shown in the gallery picture is available at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3439274. Although this fan orientation is counter to...

As with any project you will need to file/sand/drill to fit parts (#19,#32 drill bits). I also used a soldering iron to sink stubborn fitting nuts/magnets/bolt heads as needed. The first item i redesigned was the barrel release mechanism (spring...

OOMOO is a bit easier to work with, while Mold Star is more robust once cured, but that isn't terribly important for these molds. Smooth-Cast works great, though 300/325 cures pretty fast. 326 and 327 cure slower, but I got better results with 325.If...

You could use a small bit of adhesive tape to do this, but I use a Sharpie permanent marker. I mark a short black radial tick at the edge of the lens in line with the nose-bridge cross-piece of the glasses. This mark can then be aligned to the...

Details are on but will need supports and will likely be very fragile.Print separately:borealis_keelborealis_iceterrainPost-PrintingIce TerrainPrinting out the terrain with white filament works well enough, but I've attempted an interesting technique...

For this purpose, I wanted an enclosure that was a bit more decorative than the usual more practical enclosures.  For this purpose, I designed this “tower” enclosure.The enclosure is designed to accept a cooling fan. This may or may not be necessary...

So I am giving credit to the original author, but this has been changed quite a bit. BTW, the original Chef's Choice part number for the locating pin for the 615 is S610306. It is still listed on their parts site, but they no longer sell it, even...

I don't have metric drill bits so i just picked something that was slightly larger and drilled very carefully! The mounting hardware for this is M3x12 bolts, again. To finish up the filament routing I modified a bunch of preexisting designs and...

The original servo was a bit weak, so I replaced it with another NEMA17 servo, having more torque. Mount the servo to the ServoAdapter instead the servo. Use the holes that are slightly out of the 90 degree angle. Now mount the servo assembly on top...

The original servo was a bit weak, so I replaced it with another NEMA17 servo, having more torque. Mount the servo to the ServoAdapter instead the servo. Use the holes that are slightly out of the 90 degree angle. Now mount the servo assembly on top...

...Sample prints in 5 minutes while the whole thing takes bit longer :) # Files # **original_no_support.stl** - this is my remix of wku's design which prints with support neeed. Please print sample file first and check if it holds strong in your rails.

I know the description is a bit of a mess and it's partly because I just copied and pasted it from my other designs. So, here's an update for some clarification. Mounts are currently for Quest 2 only. Will upload the Quest 1 next time. 2PC means...

Another note to the FreeCad file - it is not cleaned up, so a bit messy inside, will fix it soon. The fixation of the braces is shown on the picture with the orange and light blue braces above. There are 2 pairs of square slots for fixing the...

The old red LEDs I found in my spares box are a bit taller by about 1mm than the originals, so adjust the value LED_DEPTH_FROM_TOP to suit. The PDP-11/03 requires just one of these receptacles. It is also used in the PDP-11/05 where seven are...

The section below "I²C-2004-Display and ADC key" goes to the end of your Configuration.h ### Encoder Button I recommend https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2549137 It was a bit too deep for my encoder; I dropped some junk into the opening and it works...

The drive bay may need a little bit of edge filing and brim cleaning (ymmv), then it can be glued in place. The 6-way threaded cubes can also be glued into the cutouts on the back side corners of the faceplate. The cubes will allow you to screw 1/8"...