layer square 3d models

To get all tolerances perfect, you should print all parts at 0,1mm layer height. TK_ring (variants) CL_Lock CL_Attachment GrabLocker SC_variant (variants) In theory, none of the parts is in the path of light but I'd still play it safe and print...

These two changes eliminated the need to fine tune the first layer height to eliminate elephants foot, so now the parts are easy to print an work without any post-processing with a razor. I posted the work in progress to our FB group and one of the...

6 - In order to get the flat ACME letters to glue properly to the rocket, I spread a thin layer of glue on the whole letter, placed it in position, and then used a heat tool or hair dryer (very low temp) to soften the letter enough that it could be...

If you want to safe material and time you can add a modifier with 0 top and bottom layers, 0 outlines and 0 infill to the bottom of “canister box”. (Like the “towel and soap box”). But i recommend a closed box in case whyever there is some water...

Sowith Cura 3.6 I have to start every print with a 380 mm to 600 mm skirt, depending on the layer height and width, before any plastic is actually extruded. Once it starts extruding a continuous line in the skirt it works perfectly fine and normal...

The LED light board gets inserted into a clip that clips onto the battery. The picture is a bit misleading as it is not as bright as the picture makes it look. I designed this with the idea of using clear PLA for the first 2 layers for the window...

It has a print-in-place kickstand for when it's undocked; the kickstand is held closed by a pair of press-fit 3x3mm cylinder magnets.. Here's a rough parts list: 1/2" x 1/4" x 1/8" neodymium bar magnets (8) 3x3mm neodymium cylinder magnets (2) ...

Some problems may occur during the panel printing, a specially if you didn't try before to print first layer with different colours. I attached 4 files to allow to print the panel in one of 2 ways: a) You may use separate STLs, adjust the exact...

4.I have included some sacrificial layers to various holes in most parts to aid bridging when printing. These will require cleaning out prior to assembly. Operation Due to the flexing of the shaft there are a few quirks with this thing. I am still...

I hope i dont need to explain how to use this :> You just slide all your parts together with it easy as that.After all the shelves are mounted you can slide them onto the bases, or you can slide them onto the bases first then put the shelves...

The box can be closed with a sliding lid that clicks into place when fully inserted.  How to printAs with most of my designs I print at 0.2 mm layer height ("Quality" setting) usually with Prusament PLA or DasFilament PLA, using the...

Reducing layer height to .1mm could help, but would also add significantly to print times. 2021-05-12: Added special corner connectors and panel supports for back wall of .125 (1/8") wood paneling, and updated parts lists accordingly if you want to...

After that, I applied a coat of sprayable primer so my paint would have a good surface to attach to. With my pieces ready to paint, I hit them all with a base bone yellow / cream coat, and then did some darker layers over the top to rough it up a...

I recommend using 5 top, bottom and perimeter layers with an infill of 25% or higher. The whole carriage prints in one piece, supports are not needed. The fan duct for parts cooling, the belt peg and the dragon mount all print without supports....

You might want to use a pliers for this exercise instead of the printed washer disk.Printing tipps: 15% infill, 0.15mm layer height for best thread quality, 3 perimeters, no supports. Lay down parts on print bed on the side that has contact to the...

I recommend using 4 or 5 top, bottom and perimeter layers with an infill of 25% or higher. The whole carriage prints in one piece with supports only needed in a few spots: Above the arches over the rods Inside the fan duct Inside the hole for...

I recommend using 4 or 5 top, bottom and perimeter layers with an infill of 25% or higher. The whole carriage prints in one piece with supports only needed in a few spots: Above the arches over the rods Inside the fan duct Inside the hole for...

Reason is the Flip-Switch leaf spring being to soft ||| fixed in 1st Update)(Loose Cylinder-Rotator: Apply multiple layers of tape to make less room for movement. You can use glue, too, but if something breaks you will have to print the entire...

 For the examples in the photos I've used the awesome Tecbears Shiny Silk Copper PLA (at the time of writing this now appears to be available only as part of a 3-pack, but hopefully it'll be available singly again), with 235° first layer, 220°...

**Filament used:** [Hatchbox Matte PLA, Olive Green](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09G8DBZFY?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details) (_NOT an affiliate link!_) For the second (and final for now) build, I sliced in Cura using the following settings: -...

I recommend using Polycarbonate (PC), a PC blend such as PC-FR (flame retardant PC), PC-CF (PC with Carbon Fibre) or PA-CF (Nylon with Carbon Fibre).This PA-CF should be a great option:Trianglelab Filament PA-CF15To summarize, print the parts in PC...

I recommend using 5 top, bottom and perimeter layers with an infill of 25% or higher. The whole carriage prints in one piece, supports are not needed. The fan duct for parts cooling, the belt peg and the dragon mount all print without supports....

I only indicate a height offset between the plate and the nozzle which will be equal to the distance travelled by the effector to activate the microswitch + the distance I offset the nozzle to print the first layer.``#define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET {...

Even if you don't push your speeds/accelerations up to these new limits, you might be surprised at the effect of raising them -- in my case, I think my extruder had been constrained somehow by the lower limits, because until I made these changes my...

Unless noted otherwise, no supports are required and 2-3 wall lines at 0.2 mm layer height should be fine. Disclaimer: I'm writing these instructions from memory and they will be sketchy at best. Make sure that before cutting or glueing...

I recommend using 5 top, bottom and perimeter layers with an infill of 25% or higher. The whole carriage prints in one piece, supports are not needed. The fan duct for parts cooling, the belt peg and the dragon mount all print without supports....

No more shifting the position of the SuperPINDA and throwing off your first layer calibration when you accidentally bump it! No more stripping out the M3nS nut hole in the extruder body when trying to secure the probe in place because much less...

Ideally, the part should be printed so the layer lines are parallel to the load, but that requires a lot of support and generally results in a part that isn't very round (e.g., lacks concentricity). The hose isn't all that heavy, but a sudden side...

Also you can embed them in your print by increasing magnet_closing_layer to 0.2mm, as requested by Mavi222, check out his make for more info."HiddenText" and "HiddenTextSize" will generate text on the underside of the base of the nameplate. Use it...

I recommend using Polycarbonate (PC), a PC blend such as PC-FR (flame retardant PC), PC-CF (PC with Carbon Fibre) or PA-CF (Nylon with Carbon Fibre).This PA-CF should be a great option:Trianglelab Filament PA-CF15To summarize, print the parts in PC...